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Yes good point :thumbup:

All I would chime in and say is make darn sure it's a two stage compressor. Tank size is a small consideration to me. It has to be a two stage compressor to keep up with a paint gun or it will run itself to death. My compressor will go clear down to 15psi and still run my DA sander.

I'm curious about what brand / part number this clear and hardener are?

I would have to say that it depends on the condition of the frame around the opening where the seal goes. I mean if it is in really good condition (no rust pitting, rust outs, dents, other damage) then the seal should not need sealer. I always make sure to repair any damage before I set a glass...

Many older seals for windshields and back glass for that matter do not use a sealant when being installed. If it is a rubber seal that fits around the glass and is the type that can be installed with a rope there is no need for sealant. I've done a lot of them that way and never had a leak yet...

"If you have the shop paint it, I would have them prime it too. I wouldn't want them blaming me if the paint didn't adhere or lay right since the right prep work is really important." Amen to that. If I had a customer bring a vehicle to my shop, I would darn sure want to know what was done to...

No argument from me, if it works for you go for it.

Yeah, I agree We use DeWalt stuff in lab. If teenage kids don't break it, it's a pretty good piece of equipment.

I agree with you here although I think the 50% overreduce could be debated (friendly of course). This could effect the UV properties of the clear and may, in some cases, cause de-lamination because of the watered down adhesion in the clear - my opinion.

Most Clearcoats can be re-coated as long as you follow manufacturers specs. Always get a P Sheet when buying any clear so you can follow the instructions for that product. Most are available at any place that sells the brand of clear you are using. Another source of info is the internet. You...

An excellent choice I've sprayed a lot of this clear.

Yeah, all true. Most people don't realize how much prep work there is to painting a car. It's about 75% prep and 25% fun part - painting it....lol

Ok, in my opinion: 1. I would block the run with 600 wet or dry sandpaper and water then hand sand it with 1200 wet or dry sandpaper and water to knock down the scratches especially if it's a metallic. If you don't break through to the undercoat you should be able to go right back to paint...

That would be enough for me. I'm sure he knows what he's doing and again, that's very reasonably priced.

Evercoat is pretty good stuff but I've found that this subject is like talking about what brand of oil is best. We use Evercoat Lighweight body filler in our shop. It sands nice and the cost is affordable. Don't forget to finish your repair with some polyester finish putty....lol

I've had a little bit of experience with SW paint. I would politely as if he has been to SW paint school. If he has, I'm sure he knows the ins and outs of the paint he will be using. Years of experience would be a question I would also ask although that wouldn't be a deal breaker for me, more...