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I have not used it yet but this is the one I'm looking at. It engages the clutches progressively instead of both at the same time. http://www.competitionplus.com/index.php?option=com_content&task=view&id=5474&Itemid=8 Vids on their site: http://www.zoomclutch.com/

cool

http://www.yearone.com/yodnn/tech/Technicaldiagrams/MoparTechnicalDiagrams/MoparClutchLinkage/tabid/360/Default.aspx

You need to make sure the pilot hole in the crank is drilled to the correct size and that it is deep enough for your trans snout. I would ask your engine builder about the balancing. The flywheel is zeroed on an internal balance and counter-weighted on external balance. Internal is better...

I honestly can't recall a flywheel weighing that much. 90 pounds is 3 stock flywheels! For the record, my turbo build will have either a aluminum flywheel or a lightened steel flywheel. Anyone can run one but just remember to compensate for the lack of inertia when starting off. I don't...

....bottom line....it's a race car part and acts like one when used on a car, regardless of race! lol

That is what you should do, Burnt! LOL

Burnt....Correct, but the difference in neutral rev speed (out of gear) does not translate to the rear wheels. The inertia of the 30 pound flywheel is greater than the inertia of a 10 pound flywheel. The same goes for every other component in your driveline. Obviously, there is a "happy place"...

Pretty much. I have not seen any evidence to the contrary. A road course car may benefit from a lighter flywheel because you want the engines compression braking to work to it's fullest...the inertia fights that.

Aluminum flywheel is best used on high power engines. The weight of the steel flywheel has an inertia effect at shift points...as does everything else in the drivetrain. If you have tons of torque, lighter is better.

We were runnin' side by side through the lights! LOL

http://www.brewersperformance.com/orderinfo.htm http://www.passonperformance.com/