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Thanks to everyone who contributed to help me resolve my problem. I am humbled by your knowledge base. I kowtow as I back away from your presence. Last question: how can I change the name of my post to say "solved" ? I like bringing resolution to questions I pose.

Update: the ticking is now GONE! Engine runs nice and smooth and the ticking gradually disappeared after driving it around for a while. I assume the new lifter just needed to get properly pumped up/ lubricated with the new oil. Either that or the holy water I spritzed onto the valve cover did...

I did no cleaning while it was disassembled, only a basic wipe down of where the rockers mount on the head. I will investigate using the dial gauge to check the cam. Thanks, Dan.

Before I agree with the "leave it a 4-door and go buy a coupe" crowd.... what is the advantage/purpose of this? As Hannibal Lecter would say: First principles. What is its nature? What are you seeking by doing this?

Update! I did my tune-up today. Oil change (Mobil 10W-30 with K&N oil filter), Spark Plugs (NGK ZFR5N with washers removed), spark plug tube seals, air filter, Distributor cap and rotor button. http://www.slantsix.org/forum/viewtopic.php?p=138010&highlight=#138010 I also did the fuel line...

Especially a policeman who patrols the area where your business is located! JK!

I assume you have "done*" countless engine swaps... Unfortunately for me, I don't live in a complex with a large lot full of empty parking spaces. The car is in a covered (good) community garage (bad) that is very full of cars, so everyone is watching every little thing I do down there. If I...

This isn't a Pep Boys or anything. This guy runs a small classic car shop. I talked with him about my car for over an hour today and he was VERY knowledgeable about the slant six. He knew lots of small things about the car and the motor and I didn't even have it up there with me. He runs it by...

I will give an update soon. My gauges are out being freshened up, and when I get them back, I can get the car running again. I plan on flushing motor, oil change, and check push rod performance. I will pull the rocker arm assembly and make sure the push rod is not bent. After that, I will have...

Too bright? I assumed I would just make them as bright as possible... No? I already bought 3 3886X bulbs from the place you've recommended in some of your previous posts... 2 for the gauges and 1 for the push-button controls.

3886X, right?

Ah! I had a sneaking suspicion that these were removable! I had tried tapping one of them off with a screwdriver, but I didn't know for sure, so I stopped trying, for fear of damaging the plastic. I will break out my snap ring pliers this weekend. Dan, you are my bearded knight in shining armor...

I am trying to pull my dash trim in order to clean/strip and restore the pieces. I am stuck on the push-button bezel disassembly. The picture below is as far as I've gotten. The repair manual I have is of no help, and I can't tell from it's pictures how to do it. Looking at the picture: It feels...

The oil comes out at the rockers, down into and through the pushrods, and down to the hydraulic lifters. This is what I observed running the motor with the valve cover off.

Ok, so I will pull the rocker assembly, and then pull out that pushrod and lifter. I will let you guys know what happens in a week or so...

Its definitely the rear most valve (exhaust) that is clicking... it is loose as all hell. How do I tighten this up? I also need to identify what year this head is from... I have the NGK spark plugs and need to know if I should keep the spark plug washers on, or take them off. It seems clear...

I just drove a long ways, then popped my valve cover to do my first slant 6 valve adjustment... and there aren't any adjusters! I heard that later slant 6's did not have any adjustment screws. What gives? My car is a '64. Even if there aren't any adjustments, at least one of the valves is...