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They are 3/8-16, don't remember the length. Just put them together and measure the depth with something like a screwdriver. Any hardware store should have them readily available.

Yes, it works just fine.

The world is full of those "_____ or die!" types of people. I say build whatever suits your needs. I took out my slant and put in a 318 just because I already had parts for it and I am much more familiar with the platform. Hell, I get ask the "why not a 360?" question pretty often. The fact is I...

Tell the idiot 3459 is the stock number. I'm a parts guy who is NOT lazy. :glasses2:

I have lockwasher for both top and bottom. Also have you checked how much you are actually torquing it down to? Book calls for 50 ft. lbs. When you pull the hardware off check the threads to make sure they are still good.

Number one cylinder lined up at TDC on the compression stroke and rotor pointed to the number one tower means you are static timed. Basically you are good at that point to fire it up as it will run at that. Just post up on here for the timing cover/tab in the parts wanted section. It can be done...

one more http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Vintage-Mopar-Automatic-Transmission-Inline-Filter-_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQhashZitem414d58b075QQitemZ280470532213QQptZVintageQ5fCarQ5fTruckQ5fPartsQ5fAccessories probably somewhere even cheaper or you can find one that with some modifications will work at your...

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/NOS-MOPAR-1961-62-63-INLINE-AUTO-TRANSMISSION-FILTER-_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQhashZitem35b014b9d9QQitemZ230587415001QQptZVintageQ5fCarQ5fTruckQ5fPartsQ5fAccessories

It all depends on the situation. My 225 in the Dart was smoking as the rings where going out and it really needed a complete rebuild. I ended up getting a complete V8 and trans. from a friend for free so I went that route instead. Either engine at the power level I wanted would have put too much...

Nice job! There is always that great feeling when you get an engine back together running for the first time. Can't wait for the vid to see how she sounds.

x2

I hate this type of bullsh!t these days. I try to pick the lesser of two evils and support American blue collar workers with overseas billionaire bosses. Doesn't seem to even matter the brand name anymore, just a roll of the dice I guess.

Air out the carb. bad intake valve seal. Out breather hole is rings. Do you have the results for each cylinder on the leakdown test? How long and how much on each cyl.?

My '64 has about 230k right now. The slant took care of about 220 of that and still worked fine when I swapped it over.

I have used permatex and red line and both worked fine for me. As far as the cylinder oiling it depends on the type of rings so check with the manufacturer. Keep in mind the type of rings used also require different honing finishes.

Wow great deal on the parts! I learned years ago from my old shop teacher how to work on points ignition just so I got the experience. When I did my first electronic conversion I never looked back. :-D . Whats next on the list for Victoria?

http://www.slantsix.org/articles/leanburn-article/leanburn-article.htm here ya go Memike. it looks like it wont have any type of mechanical advance setup or the vacuum setup.

sounds like it just needs a good cleaning. fuel gummed up in some of the passages.

Sublime. 8)

50 bucks is 50 bucks, thats how I look at it.:-D

maybe, but the one you do screw it up you will regret you didn't. better safe than sorry

All I would do is pull the bolt out, put some sealer on it and reinstall.

I do the same thing with the 2x4 on the dampner then smack it on. the only thing I add is I put a prybar at the back of the motor to keep pressure pushing the crank forward. that way when you are smacking it on you are less likely to damage the thrust bearing.

10 is low. most stockers sit around 20-30 hot idle.

I would say to do like scamp is offering and tig the holes back the way they should be and have it machined.

check the dist. for play like stated above. I would check the plate inside and check the bushings for the shaft to see if they are worn.

not the first part of my post but for sure the second part. there are a couple of different length trans. kickdown levers you can try if your not sure about grinding yours. if you can get the trans. to kickdown by shortening the cable then you know for sure that is your problem.

your going to want to put a spring setup on the lever at the trans. with a cable setup it will slack and the lever won't return all the way forward. i drilled a small hole on the lever then with a light spring attached to it i anchored the other end to the ear off the side of the bellhousing...

I had a problem similar to yours when i switched over to a Edelbrock and Lokar cable setup on my '64. it ended up being the detent/kickdown lever. I had to elongate the hole so I could move the stud a little either way until I found the correct position. also did you put a light spring on the...

sounds like it could be. try a little starting fluid and see if it fires right up. you should have the old holley 1920 on it and those are easy to rebuild. i had mine go bad and rebuilt it in a luckys parking lot with a fifteen dollar kit from autozone. also while your at it pull the fuel line...