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Hears mine! Just rebuilt original engine. .030 over .095 off the head slight ported and mild cam. Still running stock 1bbl carb, modified oil pan. 1st slant 6 rebuild which came out nice. Wanted to do something different which i had a 5.2 magnum and 5spd ready to go but since it had the original...

I figure if I can make an engine more efficient even if there’s noticeable design flaws why not!

I probably put about 5 quarts but i was thinking about that too since the engine would be running, its not gonna have all the 5 quarts in the pan.

I did test the pan with water and simulated acceleration with the current design as well as opened up the areas where the welds were and it definitely made a difference even with the small oil slosh baffles so I’m gonna stick with this design. I would of like to extend the windage tray further...

On UTG, while some of his stuff i agree on This i disagree on since wouldnt that create a tremendous load whipping that much oil in the pan as well as a lot of airating?

Nice! But that's interesting that your getting wear. Might be a separate issue. I figure from what RustyRatRod mentioned also with the amount of oil bleeding out from the connecting rod bearings as well as the piston oiling hole on the rods squirting oil that would be sufficient enough.

I’ll look into that more also!!

Ok and I’ll open up the baffle area where it’s welded at. It wasn’t hard considering I was using an arc welder with 6013 rod and amps were around 45 or 50. I have a cheap harbor Freight Welder. The stamped steel metal seems pretty thick too

I’m currently building a 225 out of a 72 dart. Original engine, bored .030 over, rv cam, heads milled .080. I’m wanting to improve the oiling system after seeing the UTG clip on YouTube about the slant 6 oil sloshing all the way to the back on normal acceleration causing a load on the two rear...

I’ve seen this ad close to where I live at and I thought about getting it to get my 72 Dart going to replace the 225 that’s in it now. Mine had a blown head gasket so I ended up removing it and disassembled it which looks to be a good rebuildable core. He was pretty much firm on the price with...

Just did a similar swap last few days ago, still in the process of buttoning things up but just get a later 904 for small block as stated, drive shaft tho if it's the old trunion style you'd have to change out the driveshaft to a later one that's the correct length to connect to the later slip...