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I rebuilt my own with a few upgrades recommended by Cope. I think the guys name was John that I dealt with. Super knowledgeable and an all around good guy. It was my first rebuild and it's taken a beating behind my 408.

I've been lazy and just cleaned the area really well and covered it in RTV. It never leaked again! I've also just cut the nub off of the tail housing and knocked the pin out far enough to swap the o-rings. Knocked the pin back in and ran it. My current 727 has been "modified" that way. No...

I drive my dart on the street. I drive it about an hour down the highway to the dragstrip. Race all afternoon and drive it back home. I run a 27" tall ET street with 3.73 gears. My combo is a mild 408, 727 trans and a 3300 stall convertor. Its not too bad on the highway but its a noticeable...

Possibly. I used a straight edge to check it and it seemed alright. I pulled it apart to clean it out when I built it and compared some of the mods to a transgo instruction sheet I had. TCI did a few extra mods to the valvebody compare to transgo. TCI should have checked for a warped valvebody...

Its been pretty well covered. You'll need a 727 converter, possibly a flexplate, dust shield, new/modified cooler lines, yoke, have your existing driveshaft shortened locally. It cost me under $100 to have mine done with new u joints and balanced. Its an easy and straightforward swap. Now the...

I have a Cope RMVB in my street driven dart. I absolutely love it. Im using the factory console shifter with the Cope "shift R gate". Or whatever its called. It all works pretty well.

I had a fancy braided stainless trans dipstick also. That thing was JUNK. The dipstick marks were way off. And it started leaking through the hose after a year or two. I put a factory style dipstick and tube in.

I wish I knew this about the bands. I was about to lose my mind trying to diagnose the issues on my freshly rebuilt 727. The band was adjusted properly by the builder. But started slipping in reverse after a few hundred miles. I attempted to adjust it, but I ran out of threads on the adjuster! I...

I've never seen one with any trace amount of paint on them. They're always pretty dang rusty.

I put a Cope RMVB in my car a few months ago. I love it for the most part. But its annoying when I want to cruise with my arm out the window and I have to shift it.

I just clean it with brake cleaner and pack it with RTV. It'll never leak again.

I would be scared of the back tires locking up! I accidentally down shifted into 1st at 25-30 MPH awhile back. My M/T ET street R's locked up and squealed like crazy before I got it shifted back into 2nd! I'm sure that a "rev match" would help greatly, but screw that. I leave the corners and...

I talked to John cope for awhile before ordering my RMVB. He said shifting into 2nd for passing is fine. But he recommended not downshifting into low until the car was stopped or nearly stopped.

I did air test it with the old/correct pump that I removed from the trans. It all air tested great. But I last minute decided to swap in a new pump I had. I ended up pulling the transmission out and swapping the pump out. I put the transmission back in and it works great! The early pump on a...

I rebuilt a '79 model non lockup 727. I put billet servos, red clutches, red bands, CRT manual valvebody, etc into it. I had a new pump here and decided to use it. Upon starting it, I have reverse but no forward gears. I compared the '79 pump with a '74 pump I have and noticed a BIG difference...

I use a stock stamped steel pan from a 90's truck. The 518/46re pans are the same bolt pattern. You can buy a filter extension from ebay and just about any trans parts place. I got my pan from the local oreillys. Dorman part# 265-827

I made a lower rod for my car. Lowes had the correct size bar. I reused the adjusting block from the column shift linkage. A regular propane hand torch and patience was enough to heat the bar up to bend it. I then cut the cutter pin end off of the column linkage and welded that on. It's worked...

What are the advantages of a forward vs reverse pattern. And manual vs automatic?

I've supposedly got a TCI valvebody in my 727. The trans builder put the and several parts into my trans. After giving him two chances to fix it, I tore I to myself and built it. The valvebody has no markings on it and it looks like a used old regular valvebody with a modest shift kit in it. The...

Keep the bolt on flange and have a driveshaft with a slip joint made. I put a 454/TH400 from a 3/4 ton truck into a '73 camaro several years ago. The TH400 had a bolt on yoke and I didn't have the money for another trans or to convert it over to a slip style. I had the local driveshaft shop...

The early magnum 5.9 engine had a "neutral" flexplate like the 5.2 engines. The weight WAS on the converter in 1994, 1995, and a 1996 that I have personally worked on. Sometime in 1996 or so the weight got moved to the flexplate and the converter was then "neutral" balanced. So you need a...

I have done it without pulling the pan... I won't do it that way again. I suggest you pull the pan and valve body. There is a special tool designed to remove the shift seal on a Chrysler trans without pulling the valve body. It's a nice tool to have but I'm too cheap.

I bought a 8 3/4 housing and axles from Dr Diff. Been running those for years with a used 3.55 suregrip. I ordered 3.73 gears, bearing/seal kit, and a sure grip clutch rebuild kit last month to rebuild the tired howling 3.55 diff.

I bought one used. I don't think they are available new. Make a wanted post and I'm sure someone will have one by the end of the day.

I've heard of smothers. I've even looked at a couple of "Smothers Tuned" cars. He does great work. The shop that did mine is B&R transmission and chassis fab in Tahleqhah.

I didn't even bother to go see him after the 2nd screw up. I'm far from a trans builder, but I can build a trans better than that. And I did! It shifts great now. My friend night still have some dealings with him and I didn't want to burn that bridge. My buddy bought some B1 heads, rockers, etc...

NO! If the band adjustment is TOO loose it can allow the servo to over travel and bind. That'll cause The band to stay engaged. I would pull the pan, inspect it all, adjust the band properly and see of that all works. Pressure tests aren't a bad idea either but a band adjustment and visual...

Your reverse band is grabbing it sounds like. Reverse and 1st use that band I believe. It "locked" up on you when it tried to shift to 2nd and the reverse band was still engaged. I had my 727 rebuilt last year by a "professional" trans builder that specializes in mopar. That POS rebuild made...

I rebuilt the trans the evening. It was FUBAR'ed. The jam nut for the low/reverse band adjuster was loose. I think it backed out and allowed the piston to over travel and get stuck. It's warped and bent and has a small crack. The band and drum are trash. The clutches were burnt and needed...

Did you check to see if it's the spring from the park rod? That could explain why you had an issue with it coming out of park.