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I swapped the wires on the fuel and coolant gauges. The coolant sender worked great on the fuel gauge. It warmed up and showed just under half on a 10 mile trip. The fuel sender works on the coolant gauge, showed the same 3/4 tank. I topped the tank off and it shows full. I swapped them back...

The gauge housing is grounded. The harness has a dedicated ground wire that attaches to the cluster with a screw. The voltage regulator is grounded to the same screw. The regulator is putting out a solid 5 volts. The fuel gauge itself doesn't have a ground at the cluster. I used a wire wheel...

I have grounded the wire to the block and the alternator case since they're close by. I attached a long wire to the connector in the engine bay and ran that into the cab. I can ground that to the dash frame and watch the gauge go up to hot. I don't have any sealant on the sending unit. The...

The sender is threaded into the block. The battery is grounded to the block directly. The head is grounded to the firewall. The senders checked out around 40 ohms at operating temp. I can try to jump it to battery ground just to rule that out.

My dart is in “paint shop prison” so I bought a ‘69 D100 to play with. It’s a Mopar and pretty similar to A bodies electrically. I’m hoping you guys can help me. My gauges didn’t work, I bought a digital IVR from a member here. I disabled the failed internal regulator in the fuel gauge and...

Drop in LED bulbs were awful when I tried them a few years back. I ended up buying a set of LED replacements from DIGI-TAILS. They require some minor wiring and mounting of the boards. They are BRIGHT and light up the entire lense. They usually run a sale around Thanksgiving.

This distributor was set at 6-8 degrees idle and was at 35 all in. I'm hoping to bring the base timing up to 18 or so and see how it acts. Unfortunately, I didn't pay any attention to WHEN the advance happens.

Is it a free/easy way to get the advance to come in quicker?

I'm currently installing an FBO limiter plate into my factory electronic 340 distributor. I pulled it apart pretty easily but noticed that its missing one if the advance springs. Is that normal on some factory setups?

Remove the tail/brake light bulbs and see if the park lights still light up when you apply the brakes. One of the bulbs might not be sitting in the socket properly and its "back feeding" the park light circuit when the brake lights come on. Been there, done that!

I’ve had that happen on my truck when I was young, broke, and dumber. In that case, the wires were old and dry rotted. I knew they were old and cracked BUT it still ran. It’s almost like the electricity was taking the path of least resistance. I would replace the plugs with the proper gap...

It's a '98. The stripes are vinyl. I plan to have them removed sooner than later. Hopefully the paint isn't faded or anything. If it is, I'll have some fresh stripes applied. I don't mind them but I would prefer a solid red car. How long have you owned yours? How reliable are they? Feel free...

It's a surface mount. Shouldnt need to wick out any holes or anything. Its a flexible printed circuit board. It's glued to the case of the ECU. Pretty weird. I replaced the injector already. They have a strange looking injector but luckily found one local at AutoZone.

I called a couple of them. They all seem to just replace entire boards.

So that's It? Nothing too special? I didn't know if there were different amp ratings or something. This is above my knowledge. Replacing it won't be bad, I've done similar work before.

This isn't an A body but it's still mopar. So last Friday I found (what seemed like) a great deal on one of my dream cars, a Viper GTS! I looked at it and decided to buy it knowing it had a misfire and ran rough. It's pretty clean for its age and only has 34k miles. It had the original plugs...

Was the GM module used?

I'm running an MSD blaster SS coil. The accel part number is correct!

That plate isn't your issue. I've been running mine without a single issue here in Oklahoma. It gets pretty hot here and I even took a 2 hour trip in 100 degree weather without a problem. The car sat for about 3 hours and then made the 2 hour trip home. I'm using an MSD coil and a stock mopar...

I have my choke wired up to the alternator field wire. It gets 12 volts with the key on. It's worked great so far.

I bought some wire from wirebarn when I made my headlight relay and bypassed my ammeter. They sell good quality stuff. I THINK I used GXL, TXL has thinner insulation if I remember correctly. High Temperature Automotive GXL Wire by the Foot

Mopar Battery "Look" on the Cheap That's what I've done on my dart. I would like to have the real deal, but $350 is too much for me. It doesn't start my car any better than a $100 battery with a cover over it.

Adding a relay made a BIG difference in my stock halogen headlights. My relays are mounted under the battery tray on the inner fender completely hidden.

Just sell it as-is. Post some pics and someone will buy it if the price is right.

I don't see why it wouldn't. Got a picture of your factory radio or bezel?

Who sells $400 dollar LED lights?

I bought some drop in LED lights for my 1970 dart from digi tails. Got the on a black Friday sale or something and saved a good amount. They're worth every penny. 1970 Dodge Dart LED Tail Light Panels

We have them all over here in Oklahoma! The warehouse is 10-15 minutes away from me. So if a store doesn't have it I can pay for it and go pick it up! It's nice since the stores don't keep much mopar stuff in stock. What auto parts stores are in New York?

Oreillys had them on the shelf in the electrical area. There are some made for blade style fuses also. It's a simple, reliable, and cheap way to add power wires without cutting up factory stuff.

The red wire is the only factory wire you should be concerned with reusing since your running new speaker wire. It's hot here in Oklahoma also. Worked all week in Arkansas where it's hot and full of hills. Then came home to more heat with a hot breeze!