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slantsix.org has a good write up on the 2.2 piston and 198 rods

shut'er down on the first click?

all the exhaust manifolds are the same.

Looks pretty decent! Hope it fixes easily for you!

http://www.mopar1.us/tireconversion.html nice chart here

Doesn't have to run, it only needs the ignition to fire to send a signal to the light. might be a bit of a pain, but if you crank it over for a few rounds, you'll be able to see if the timing is way off.

That would work.

Fix the fuel leak first. Check the throttle opening by hand at the carb with the engine off, make sure it is opening fully. The throttle cable should be able to slide freely to its stop at the bracket. There is a nut clamping the cable down, 7/16 wrench to adjust it.

My 69 has the vin stamped on a machined pad on the oil pan rail, passenger side.

You may need to set your valve lash. Not too hard to do, and works well to use the vacuum gauge while you do the lash.

if those are the only wires that are chewed, it is only the wiper motor.. can be fixed but not needed to run. I would start with pulling the air cleaner off to see if there is a bunch of stuff in it, if not good! Check the oil...put a battery in it...pull the coil wire off, so you can crank...

the aluminum weighs about 18 pounds lighter than the 2 barrel cast iron one. The carb might be a bit specific to the year and model, but most 2 bbl Carters on 318 and slants can interchange.

Slant six aluminum intake with a two barrel would sell here or on slantsix . org easily.

Napa for Holley CRB 25574 or CRB 25461 kit. for Carter CRB 25480A or CRB 25500 kit. helps if you have the carb model.

14 to 20...maybe more maybe less, and a lot depends on your driving and terrain, city or highway.

Yeah, sorry, I did read that and had disconnected and reconnected that a couple times, it is covered with oil, no rust forming. Cleaned and connected. The one I replaced it with did not fit the slant Distributor, so I modified the thing with a razor blade. You can see where the grommet is...

apparently no signal from the distributor will not let the module work at all...this has happened before on stock mopars i have had before...don't know why I didn't think of it ...I read some other forums, and it was mentioned...

Problem solved: Pick up coil in the distributor was bad.

by-passed the ammeter long ago.

Thanks guys!

Was changing my starter on the slant six, had the battery unhooked, hooked it back up, and left the key on for probably 20 minutes while doing other stuff, then the coil would fire. Switched coils with another one that I assumed worked, still nothing. 11.8 volts at the jumper that bypasses the...

unhook the power steering belt and go for a short test drive...it will hard steering at slow speeds, but that would pinpoint the problem if it isn't squealing with the belt off.

Ditto, bought mine at NAPA last year, included the boots.

I was going to swap in later model a body 7 1/4 axles in my 69 Dart. Bought the axles, but found that the flange was 5 bolt on the newer axles, and 4 bolt on the 69. Spacing was different too, so I stopped there. Since then, I replaced the entire rear with an 8 1/4. Much happier. I could...

awww ok, lol

sounds like a vacuum leak. Crack in the manifold or carb base one it gets hot opens? Should be able to pinpoint it with a spray can of starting fluid carefully sprayed in that area

After driving it for a couple weeks, it has not been a real problem at all going up hills. Initial acceleration is definitely not like a 340 4 speed with 3.55:1 gears, but it goes fine. Really nice cruising down the highway at 70 and the slanty buzzing along happily. Scored a set of BFG 215...

The 7 1/4 was losing fast. Oil was drooling from both axle seals...so much so, that a puddle killed the grass next to the left rear tire. Ugh. I knew it had been coming for a while. The tell tale growl in the rear..was it the carrier bearings, pinion bearing or axle bearings? Well, likely...