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My biggest concern now is the radiator which is cracked in the upper tank. If I can either get it repaired or replaced I will have it running soon. This is 1 of the 3 cracks I have. I attempted to soldier it but was unable to get it to seal. Time to take it to a radiator shop.

I made some home made taps out of some bolts. Cleared the threads deaper in the mounting pads and sourced some slightly longer bolts. It is all tight now. Here is my home made tap

Would be cool but I will probably come up a bit short. Lol

I got it installed this week and started it up. The good news is it runs and sounds very good. The bad news is the radiator started to leak after running for 10 minutes or so. 2 cracks developed in the top tank. I have to pick up some acid core solder and repair the radiator. I have a...

Well after installing the engine today and hooking most things up, I have run into a snag. Threads pulled out of one of the torque converter boss. So now I have to either attempt to repair the threads in the vehicle or pull the transmission and swap out the converter.

The carb is just there to block the hole in the intake. Not the one I plan to run.

I will be running it. I wound up getting pulled away from it today but hopefully will be lowering the engine in tomorrow. Still a few small details to work out aka pullys and what not but once the motor is in the start will come soon. Here is a pic of the engine sitting ready in my garage...

As far as cam choice, If I was selecting a new cam then I would have gone with something else. I had this one and I got tired of having this motor partially assembled. I will probably change the cam and heads at a later date as funds allow. The car has been down for 8 years. Currently...

I didn’t take offense to the statement. I did not understand what you were saying. Thought you were saying since it has 11.5 it won’t run. Anyway the compression ratio I calculated using an online calculator. It has been some time since I went through my compression ratio figures but I have...

?? Not sure what you mean

I am near Bakersfield California

I was looking at pump gas mix. Plan was 91 octane fuel mixed 50/50 with 100 lol av gas.

Someone on another forum mentioned I could possibly run E85 if I set up the fuel system for it. Any experience with E85?

Yes. I did. The other concern I had with advancing the cam was the already high compression ratio. Advancing the cam would increase cylinder pressures at low rpm potentially eliminating any hope I have of running this on a pump gas mix

I considered it but I figured I would give it a try strait up and adjust cam timing as needed after I drive it and see how it runs.

I agree. I bought the pistons still in the original box off of Craigslist some time ago. I paid 200 dollars for the 383 short block core and came with the pistons still in the direct connection box. Thought it was a good deal. This all at the same time my original 383 decided it wanted to...

Yes the heads are stock. I am aware the heads are the bottle neck in the engine. Hopefully better flowing heads someday. I might pick up another set of head cores and work on learning to port them. Also looking at the stealth heads. Unfortunately money is not available for them at this...

The reason it may wind up in the dart is the compression ratio is high for the street. May build a more mild 440

It may find its way into the dart but it is actually supposed to go in my old 68 satellite

I am almost done with a motor I built that for various reasons took way too long. Been about 8 years since started this project. I am close to installing it so I just figured I would do a little bench racing and see what I can expect. The motor In question is .060 over 383 built on a...

i will check. I also saw pans on 440source for 89. pick up was 14

If I go with that pan I need to find the pick up. Jegs didn't list one with it. Descriptions said it used the stock pick up which doesn't seem correct .

I know not A body related but I also own a B body. The B body message boards are not near as active so I figured I might ask this here too. If it is not allowed forgive me and feel free to remove the thread. I am just about ready to finish my engine and I am trying to decide which oil pan...

Most speedometer shops can make one up for you. There is coupler that engages the distributor to the cable that I need to make mine work

yes you can remove the cable and run it with out. I would figure out a rubber cover to keep dirt out of the drive though. You can lube the cable just like a Speedo. I am not using the cable drive on mine at the moment. I am using an auto meter tach but still using the old distributor.

I have a similar one on my small block 340. They were originally sold out of the direct connection catalog . Mine has very light weight springs in it. Uses standard mopar electronic box but the reluctor does look a little different. I also have the cable driven tach for mine but need a...

that is what I was thinking.

Sounds similar to a motor I have sitting in the corner of the garage. 383 .060 over 11.5 to 1 direct connection pistons. 509 purple shaft cam. 906 heads. Holley street dominator manifold. I was planning on running it in my 68 Plymouth Satellite but it might look good in my old 67 Dart...

Timing marks are dictated by the balancers timing mark and it's relation to true top dead center. Timing marks on the balancers have zero effect on cam timing. Cam timing and cam centerline is verified and adjusted using the degree wheel once true top dead center has been established.

I am not an expert but it would seem to me that unless the rocker arm is designed to be oiled through the pushrod then Oil is just pumping into a dead end. In stock form the rocker shaft are flooded and small orifices are drilled on then shaft pointing down to lubricate the rockers. It does a...