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Helwig sells a bar with tabs that mount with the lower shock bolts. its a bit larger diameter bar also. We used it with no issues on my sons 70.

I took the pump apart and removed the valve and cleaned everything up. The valve was hard to move when pressing it against spring pressure. New O-ring installed and it moves better. I had since resealed the leaking pump and reinstalled it. I feel like the valve was the problem but cant say until...

Have you sat the car on the ground and checked it, or is the jack in the picture pushing the rear up to ride height?

Mopar Mike is correct. If you pull the pump and remove the reservoir again you'll see a small snap ring close to the size of a dime. The valve is supposed to move up and down if you push on it. Its possible a bit of dirt got in it, as its a close clearance. It has one or two O-rings on it also...

It seems years ago I had to bend the flat seam on the tank that sticks out. it was hitting the large part of the shock.

The seals are easy to change if you decide to go that route

Gates #350370 for the TRW/Thompson pump

I have a part number for the kit. I'll dig it up as soon as I can.

Awesome!

Smack it down with a deep socket and let it pop back up unrestricted. It took quite a few hits few for me but it finally popped out. Ck the snap ring grove for any burrs that might be stopping it also. Its a close tolerance.

Excellent reference 4spd

That looks like a Thompson/Trw pump. Does it have a threaded hole in the center of the pump shaft? I don't see a hole. Hole is federal, no hole is Trw. If your rebuilding the kits are different.

I also wasn't aware of the TRW for quite a while, they must have used them quite a bit, as once I found out about them I checked my stash and I had two more that I thought were Federal all this time.

Hope this helps someone. the most obvious ways to tell if you have a TRW or Federal pump, the look similar at first glance. The Federal has a threaded hole in the shaft where the pulley goes on. The TRW has no hole. I've posted a rear view also. I got my kit from Rock Auto. They list a Federal...

In order to ck the bypass valve you need to remove the reservoir and you will see as snap ring about the size of a dime. Pull the snap ring and push down on the piece and let it spring back until it pops out. The piece on top contains the O-ring and the valve and spring are below it. Ck for...

The drivers really worked back then, drove the $hit out of them!!

Interesting

Huh, I wasn't aware of the trw pump but I believe I have the federal with the small notch. Its not in front of me right now. Thanks 4spd for the visual

:BangHead:

Ok, thanks. would you know where in the pump its located?

I always thought the system self bleeds by turning the wheel back and forth, that's all I've ever done. I lifted the front wheels off the ground to turn the steering wheel because I couldn't turn it with them on the ground but that didn't help. I saw a few bubbles in the reservoir but not many...

About 3 years ago I pulled a leaking Federal pump off my son's Duster and replaced it with one from my stash. I stuck it in a box and put it away. Flash forward to now. The pump on my other son's Dart developed a slow leak. I pulled the other old one down and put new shaft and reservoir seals...

70, are they different than 66? If so disregard post.

I recently installed the Hellwig 1 1/8 bar #5906 from Summit, on my sons Dart. It feels better that the stock bar. I'm happy with the upgrade.

If you want to use your existing 72 front end stuff it will all bolt up, did it on my 71. Didn't have a sway bar though so I cant comment on that.

Your second and last paragraph are what I'm after, appreciate your input also.

I see what your saying. Thanks.

Thanks blu. I value your opinion on topics like this, as you always give a good explanation.

I'll probably run a bead to secure the bolt on tabs once everything is set

Dang, that's a big bar! Yes very similar set up, thank you.