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It is repairable ! My suggestion is to have custom headers made with slip connectors for ease of service . I am aware they are expensive (about $1,00000) but in the long run you will be ahead . After they are made have them coated inside and out . Done , done and done

I meant Dynomax . Sorry if there is any confusion .

GEt rid of the glasspacks . Flowmasters reduce sound by cancellation . I suggest Magnaflow uses the absorption method . THat is , at low speeds it's quiet and sound increases as rpm goes up . So if you are cruising along Magnaflows are quieter than Flowmasters until youh it the loud pedal .

Maybe no one will read this but undercar exit sucks . In my state the exhaust must exit behind rear axle for ovious reasons .

Outstanding , thank you . I had the exact issue with the hangers . Called them , no help . Bent the hangers , worked fine . TTI knows this but denies it . Haha , Mrs. says it's too quiet .

pissa

I had exactly the same issue with my '72 . Even called them . haha WOund up bending and lowering hanger by adding to it . worked pissa

If you have a LA engine I would suggest '64-68 , 273/318 manifolds because of the left side twisted escape . 2 bbl or 4 bbl. no matter . cheap and easy .

Yes they do . I have 3" system . Does need tweeking because of its size but fit o.k.

Like I said , if you have numbers matching , low production , true muscle car , go with factory exhaust . I had a numbers matching car once , never again .

IMO , you are giving up both horsepower and torque by going to a 2 1/4" system . I have been told by several manufacturers of exhaust headers and systems that 425 engine horsepower is the cutoff point between 21 /2" and 3" systems . If you have a low production/numbers matching car then 2 1/4"...

IMO , it would be greatly useful if T.T.I. would put slip connectors in their headers , OR , put 2 bolt flat flanges where the tight areas are . I don't t hink it would ad too much to the cost .

Good for you ! I'm so glad you called TTI before pulling the trigger . Let us know how they fit . I have the 1 7/8" and IF you follow their instructions the inatall is fairly easy . Good luck . BTW, I put my engine in the same way . Raised the car up with an engine hoist . The Mrs. worked...

No

Just by looking at the left side I'm thinkin' you are in for some bashing . JMO

How wonderfully optimistic of you . I had slip fit headers made on another car . Cost was within $100 of TTI's . I used never-seize on the slips . I wasn't a piece of cake but no leaks . Had them HPC coated . five years and still look great .

Wouldn't it be nice if TTI would include slip connectors so that you wouldn't have to take 1/2 the car apart to install ? Just thinking .

The end bolts are wet . I use Percy's after prepping with brake cleaner or mineral spirits . After installation just snug up bolts . Start motor , let it warm up , snug up again . DO NOT OVERTIGHTEN . I made a special wrench which I keep in car . It's a PITA but eventually the gasket will...

All I see is rust .

Dynomax

Because your intake heat is blocked your heat valve in the manifold is useless . Option #1. braze the butterfly in the open position . #2. remove butterfly and plug holes where the shaft was . #3. do nothing and it may stick closed and/or it may rattle . I think all options are o.k.. Later, Tom

I used manifolds from a c-body. They fit o.k. but left side dumped right in front of column shift linkage. Had a special pipe made. Sometimes ya just gotta fabricate stuff.

May I add my comments. My ride is a '72 Scamp, 383, 727 with TTI 17/8" pipes. Although I have no firsthand knowledge of installation of 2" it stands to reason they would be more difficult to install. If I can enlighten you some. Their instructions are quite clear as to installation. I tried...

I have a 383 Scamp with T.T.I. 17/8" ceramic. Although they may be difficult to install the fit and finish are great. If the instructions are followed installation is easy but time consuming. I love them. Schumacher makes tri-y headers that may be easier to install.