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Big block Mopar’s love big headers and big carbs. If you build another set I would build them 2 1/8” - 2 1/4” primary about 32”-36” long tubes and 3 1/2” - 4” collector for the most power. This is if it’s a healthy 493. We built a set of 2 3/8” primary 4 1/2” merge collector headers for my 572...

What oil are you using?

Have the rotating assembly balanced at a reputable shop and install a Hughes girdle. No need for aluminum main caps. I would also install a good balancer. I prefer to use Fluid dampners. Don’t forget to have the clutch/flywheel or flexate balanced also. You should have no cap walk after that.

Gear drives transfer a lot of harmonics to the valve train. Don’t spend the money on one.

Griffin Cross Flow

What lobe separation? I'm sure it's between that and where the cam was degreed in.

I don't remember what your cam Specs were. Mine is .830" lift and 289 duration at .050". I will have to look tonight but I think it's on a 113 lobe seperation.

Nice results! That's a great tq number and you don't have to spin it very high either for peak hp. How high did you turn it on the Dyno? Just curious because mine made peak power at 7,400 and we spun it to 7,700 on the pulls. Also what fuel did you use?

The power terminals are too close to the block. I had two of them short out and the starter engaged on it's own. No problems since switching to a Powermaster.

I never had any luck with the newer ram/dakota starters on my 440 also. I have been running a Powermaster and it has been great.

You shouldn't have any problems with clearance, especially with a B block and the offset adaptor. I'm running an RB and had no problems with Indy EZ heads or Indy 572-13 heads. And both of those heads are much taller than the stock heads.

X2 for Marine Crankshaft. I had them do the crank in my 572.

Break in the motor with Valvoline VR1 20/50 and a bottle of Comp break in additive. Then after break in, Mobil 1 15/50. Very good oil with all the zinc you need and it's easy to get anywhere.

Every big block mopar we have had on the dyno with aluminum heads has liked 38 degrees timing the best. Get you timing to there like others have said.

Any numbers yet?

Sounds like a good set up. You should have no problem making 600hp. That's a pretty stout cam for a stock stroke motor.

This is true but his girdle does work and it fits nice. And i'm not a big fan of Hughes.

I'm a believer in girdles with stock caps. I had 4 years of abuse on my old 500" RB at 760hp and over 7,000 rpm consistently. Bearings looked perfect and had no cap walk. The most important thing is have everything balanced at a good shop.

I was running a 500" RB with 763hp on pump gas for 3 years of abuse on the street and the track with a 4 speed. 7,000-7,500 rpm shifts and 7000 rpm launches dumping the clutch at the track with slicks. I ran a Hughes girdle with stock main caps. When i tore the motor down the bearings looked...

I don't run torsion bars so I just made a tubular crossmember and trans mount that ties the frame rails back together.

I put the TH400 in the car last week. It did not fit the stock crossmember so I cut it out and just built a tubular cross member. Let me know if you have any other questions.

Every big block mopar that I have ever had on the dyno liked 38 degrees timing the best. I run 38 locked on every one of my street/strip motors.

I will find out soon. I will be putting the trans in the car with in the next couple days. I'm waiting for the trans to finish getting built.

Put a good 1" Wilwood manual master cylinder on it. The pedal will be way more consistent and it saves a ton of room. Also don't have to worry about what cam to run to have vacuum.

:thumbup:Cool! Looking forward to seeing how it all turns out. We'll have to compare dyno sheets when yours is all done.

Holley 750Hp or Holley 850dp would be a good choice.

Put a thin film of black rtv on the block where the valley plate bolts to the block. Bolt the plate down and when you are ready to put the heads on put a 1/4" think bead of rtv on the valley plate where it will meet the head. After the heads are bolted on then smooth out the silicone and make...

This is how I run my breathers to a catch can. No more mess.

MSD 8.5mm. How old is your cap and rotor? If you run a high output ignition box like an MSD, they are tough on the cap and rotor. I replace mine one or twice a season.

The motor is very close to the 572 we just did. Same block, heads, intake, 1.7 rockers, and lifters. You definitely should make more tq than me. Hp should be real close. You are building yours with a lot more compression but a little less cam. Mine came in at 11.1 comp for pump gas. We...