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WOW Wagin! I couldn't put ANY of that stuff on my car, it would make the rest of the car look too crappy! I'm on the edge of my seat to see more transformations!!!

I'm thinking wiper pivots, too, but there are a lot of places for water to get in. Leaves in the cowl vent are bad, pine straw is a nightmare. I had the windshield replaced on my ramcharger "professionally". After the third visit, with the second new windshield, the guy finally just caulked...

Is that a Yenko Nova? It is going to look Awesome!

My opinion : '69 rear end = greatest rearend ever, '70 rearend = mistake. '69 front end = old man car, '70 front end = frightened children. A '69 with a '70 front clip may be the single greatest creation of the modern world, while a '70 with a '69 front clip would be a good argument for...

Seems like it's not mixed well at the bottom of your pallet. Try leaving a thin layer on the pallet (or mixing board or mixing pad, whatever). also if you are mixing your filler on a pourous surface like cardboard, it can mess up the last little bit. I friend who is a pro body man told me to put...

I don't believe silicone is paintable??? That would be another reason to not use silicone.

Wish I could say the same, but I can say that every one of them got that crap scraped off and re-painted. Vinyl tops are right up there with rust on my "things I hate about old cars" list.

Also, just my opinion, but vinyl tops WERE created by Satan to eat cars from the top down.

On most cars (not just Mopars) the roof was not painted the same color as the car under the vinyl. They are usually primer (some high end Fords were painted white), that is part of the reason you always find nasty surprises under the top when you peel it off. I scrapped my plans to build a 76...

Sorry to hear about it. Locks are easy and cheap (along with a car and anything that will fit in a wallet) compared to losing a family member. Thank God no one was harmed.

Man that is nice. My '72 was the same color, but hasn't looked that nice since early '73! Great job.

I guess they are speed holes, roughly the same size as the tire, reddish-brown around the edges and jagged? Too sharp to be escape hatch. Looks just like the smaller speed holes along the bottom of the door skins and wheel arches.

Good Job! Way to "Use what you've got"! send us an installed pic so we can all see how it fits. I love an out of the box answer, way better than throwing money at it untill it sticks!

I've always heard that there is NO WAY to smoothly bond fiberglas to steel without cracking. May last 3 months or 3 years, but cracks will happen. I think you are right about slamming the hood exasperating the problem, but think about the temperature changes a hood goes through. In cold weather...

I had Glass Doctor do my Ramcharger about 8 years ago for $120 including the new windshield. They screwed it up the first time and ended up coming back twice, once with another windshield. I know how it is done (in theory), but it is something I'd rather leave in the hands of a professional.

OH, ans X2 on what Green Hornet said, for some reason these things will climb over a concrete block to get away from a bumper jack. Phobias.

Looks good, but I notice the plymouth didn't come with "speed holes" under the spare tire. The '72 Darts had a special lightening system under the spare for weight savings and ventalation... or maybe an escape hatch?

I just used some new (to me, anyway) stuff. I think it is made by Bond-o, but it is lightweight gold filler. Went on very smooth, good for thin coats. I couldn't believe how light it was, felt like 1/2 the weight of the old gray stuff I always used. A friend of mine (who is a body man) suggested...

If you try to weld sheetmetal with a stick, you will drive yourself crazy filling holes. The best you can hope for is to build the buggers up thick enough to weld to, then grind it into the shape of your part. I welded my mufflers to the exhaust pipes and turn-outs with a bunch of 6010s on the...

I've had good luck using fiberglass resin for larger repairs. Make your repair piece out of plastic (even wood) then brush on the resin, it's strong, sandable and takes paint well. I've had very bad luck with cheap-o spray paint, but that could also be chalked up to poor prep. To replicate...

I've always been a fan of the hammertones! I had a '79 scout, silver hammertoned the bumpers, wheel centers, valve covers, breather, roof rack and winch cover. Never got a chip, that stuff is great!! The black hammertone looksgood, too, just a little more subtle.

Also remember that if you shoot it with primer or any flat or satin paint that is not a SEALER, you may as well cover it with a rag soaked in salty water. Primers (and body filler) do not stop moisture, that is why rust is creeping through. If you are going for a primered (rat) look, paint it...

I used the gel-type. Works, but sometimes takes several coats, and you have to sand after.Pain in the butt. Since I was doing a "farm truck"/parts hauler, I eventually decided that the paint wasn't that bad and only stripped the front (cab), just sanded the rest. Can't tell now. held up good so...

I fixed a busted place in mine with fiberglass resin and strips of wood (to replace missing slats). It seems pretty strong and is sandable and paintable. You could use small strips of fiberglass cloth or mat for reinforcement.

How do you guys keep your satin black hoods looking good? Obviously you can't wax it, what do you use to protect it? What did people use "back in the day" to keep it from fading or turning gray? I've heard you can use baby oil, anyone tried it?

I like the six-pack and think it would look great as a "shaker". The hemi scoops get attention, but I have heard of them flying off. I guess thats a chance you take with any scoop if it is not attached well enough, but DANG that hemi scoop is big!

Do you remember which brand of wall spackling workes best? I may have to try that! LOL!

But just think how great a '69 would look with a '72 hood and fenders!! IMHO, the perfect dart.

He may have gotten the rust, but didn't properly clean/seal the area, letting rust start before the paint was applied. Rust is like a virus, not just the way it spreads, but the way it starts, too. Painting over even a small amount of rust is like putting on a condom after you get an STD, too...

Bob, Good luck with this build!! I've always wanted to cut-out my rear quarters for that SS look, but it is a big job and may not look "right" on my wrong-year Dart. Please take lots of pics!! The more you do to it, the more you OWN it!