Search results for query: *

anything you want. as long as its no less than 1200ppm phosphorous/zinc content life should be hunky dory. if it is less, add some lucas zinc additive. good thing to remember, lucas claims their 16oz bottle of break in additive mixed with 5qts of API SN oil will get you approx. 5200 ppm...

just built a 401 for an 81 J10. if youre hell bent on doing it, a chrysler trans AMC case will work, 727 or 904, 290/304/348/360/390/401, but the problem lies in sourcing a flex-plate. 99% of 401's had a TH400 backing them. the only factory application that had a 727/401 combo was a 74...

you lucky dog! I've never ran an Eddie but I noticed my holleys don't stick out to the side nearly as far as my TQ's did.....are eddies narrower by chance?

uhmm....well, in my personal experience (I'm sure its worked for others but not with my particular vehicle) my Chrysler 400/727 setup wouldn't work switching from a Holley 2210 to a TQ, kickdown rod was way too short (I had a 1 piece rod) and the bracket was 2 inches too far toward the center...

I'd nab it right up! steel crank and rods!!!! DOOO IT!!!!!

as stated above, twice, the 440source viton side seals are the only kit that ive had actually work. the fel-pro kit is a JOKE!

it will only affect cold startup and warm up time. mine were full of carbon, i left them that way, and blocked off the egr and the floor vents inside the intake. if its super cold, give it a snort of WD-40 to keep the carb from icing up. not a huge deal.

those are part of the crossover ports for the EGR, i can only assume to keep the temps down around the center port. the "U" shaped holes are blanks, and are only good for losing bolts, sockets, and drive bits in, and never getting them back. The ports that really matter are the ones about the...

NGK'S! I switched over from champions and have never looked back. i run v-powers currently, but havent tried the iridiums yet. MSD 6A high vib. blaster coil, 8mm graphite core wires. it starts much faster, idle and throttle response are also much much better.

on the plus side you have 95% "car stuff", only difference is, you need an early 70s car non-ac water pump pulley, it has a much much deeper recess in it. 1 belt goes from the inner crank pulley groove, to the water pump, to the inner groove on the alternator, and the second goes from the outer...

ac or not? and if it has a high-mount power steering pump then it wont be for a car. ive seen trucks come either way, and cars have the p/s pump mounted lower. itll also matter if you have a 100 amp or a 60 amp squareback alternator, and what crank pulley youre running and if it has that goofy...

It depends a lot on how the customer interprets the statements I would think....in the current lucas technical data catalog, theres one line in the description that says, "It is excellent for flat tappet camshafts during break in OR as an additive to any motor oil to prevent premature wear"...

nevermind, i found my booboo. once again ive made an *** of meself :oops: thanks again!!! very helpful article by the way.

love the work dan! but i was following your math and im pretty sure you converted using fluid ounces/gallon in UK measurments not US standard....i could be completely wrong but i did this multiple times on my math (like i said i could be wrong) and the only way i achieved your findings was using...