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There are no 10 x 2.5 SBP backing plates. Original A-Body SBP rear 10 in brakes are 10.75. Original 73 up BBP 10 in A-Body rear brakes are 2.5. The backing plates are different than the SBP backing plates. But the 10 x 2.5 brakes came on most other platforms including PU Trucks.

What pads are you running?

I think 1" in is correct, but 15/16" will also work, manual or power. Sounds like some pistons are stuck, were the calipers rebuilt?

Early Mustang pistons fit our calipers. I can't remember, but I think the later ones are the best match. I'd hold out for stainless steel pistons.

Already have them. They were easy to find. Viper owners were upgrading their calipers and other vehicle used them also. Just not sure I want to start a new project as I have 3 Barracudas now in various stages of completion. Brakes are everything from Kelsey-Hayes to pin type 11 3/4 in 76 rotors.

There was a kit to use Viper Brembo calipers using those knuckles also. I have one of those kits I never used. https://arengineering.com/tech/mopar-musclecar-brake-upgrade

Been there done that. Just keep the SBP in the end it is cheaper and less complicated. What car and what brakes do you have now? Get a conversion kit or a set original K-H front discs from a 66-72 A-Body.

As I remember the early pre 66 manual brake rod is the same as on 67 up manual master cylinders.

67 Valiant or Barracuda drum master cylinder will be dual reservoir and work correctly.

It is hard, since you just bought 13 in tires. In todays world I would buy 15"x 6" Ralleye wheels, Wheel Vintiques 61-565404 Wheel Vintiques 61 Series Chrysler Rallye Silver Wheels | Summit Racing and get a set of original Kelsey Hayes disk brakes or 10 in drum brakes. The 9" brakes are weak...

What size brakes do you have now?

I looked and Hawk does not appear to have pads for sliding calipers, but EBC does in at least 3 compositions.

I checked the set I have and they are the pin type. Is that what you were looking for? They made pads for sliding calipers also. I really hate the "we'll throw a generic picture in and add a disclaimer" nonsense. Why bother, just pull the part and take a picture of the part you want to sell.

Summit lists them as available, special order $79.89 Search for 78 Plymouth Fury (pin type). That is what I use on the 67 Barracuda. 1978 PLYMOUTH FURY Hawk Performance HB643F.595 Hawk Performance HPS Brake Pads | Summit Racing

There are options. You can (or used to) get Hawk racing pads.

Just clean them up and sand the brake surface with 80 grit sandpaper to clean up the rust and break the glaze. Don't turn or replace the rotors unless they pulse when you brake. Then it is time to get new rotors. Those hubs are very hard to find, let alone Left hand studs.

They go on the back

I have a drawing for the K-H caliper mounting bolt. I would also be interested in buying at least 1 set of 4 bolts if you have them made right. message me.

Do you have an 8 3/4 rear? If so get the K-H disc setup and be done.

If you have done it once you should be good. You didn't swedge them again did you? Should just be a easy press out now.

What is the bore diameter of the master cylinder?

That's where I was going. Glad you are good to go.

What conversion did you buy? Are the rotors for Kelsey Hays Disks?

I have to agree with you. I ran a 1 1/32 bore master for years on a 64 Barracuda and loved it, OEM 74 Duster manual brake system. It seems like newer pads don't work as well? Maybe bad flex lines as well.

Hah, beat me by a minute.

Try a 15/16 bore master cylinder. Sand with 80 grit sand paper to break the glaze on the rotors and get some good brake pads. I use Hawk street pads.

As I remember, you need the disc master cylinder also.

I use a 73 Duster with Disc brakes as my model for parts. You can even get new SS brake lines that will fit perfect on your early Barracuda or Valiant. K-H or 73 discs, only the caliper soft lines change on K-H discs.

Still not buying it. See this thread post #15 KH Hub removal ? . Why not buy a $10 hole saw and cut the swedge using a drill? Or drill the head off the stud from behind, then there is zero chance of damaging anything? Then all it takes is a light press or a hammer an a brass drift to get...

No theory. You swore there was no such thing as swedged studs. You had done thousands and never seen one. I proved you wrong, with pictures. Now you say it matters not just beat them out with a BFH or a press, you can't damage a hub. Which is it, Clown? I care not what you think. You will...