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.......And see if you really even have a spark FIRST thing I'd do is go over what you messed with, and the firing order/ plug wire indexing is a good bet. Bump the engine around until the timing marks are somewhere around 10BTC. Pull the cap and see which wire the rotor points to...

If a carb is too lean (idle circuit) it will do this, as well as retarded timing. When was the last time it was tuned? Points condenser (if used), plugs, check wires, cap rotor plugs, check / set timing, carb mixture, idle speed. WHEN was the last time the carb was cleaned/ rebuilt...

STEVE WELDER STAY OUT OF MY THREADS

Just sayin, LOL, I owned a Ford Ranger and Dodge 600 (k car) that were both injected--1986 !!!

It will NOT increase HP over a PROPERLY sized, jetted and otherwise properly operating carb EFI varies IMMENSELY as to amount of work, cost, and problems. I started with used systems to learn, and have been happy, but the cost can get to you. For me, it works, others, not so...

You may need more timing. What are you running for a cam? 15 initial "or more" is not unheard of. You can NOT run a performance, cammed up engine on a "stock" distributor AKA long stock mechanical curve and slow advance AKA strong springs

Also research your distributor position, and realize that with electronics, you are not actually talking about "advance" but rather, "retard." That is because advancing electronics would be like time travel. The electronics generates a pulse, and you cannot have the spark happen...

Not sure where we are.......you mentioned alternator. We need to know "what you have." There are two major differences in alternators over the years. The 69/ earlier alternator only has one field connection. This is a "push on" "flag" terminal. If you have two of these on the...

You are wasting time with the 4 pin ballast. That box is a 4 pin box and it only needs a 2 terminal resistor. The fact is, unless you run into some "new old stock," you cannot BUY a 5 pin box. The fact that the box actually has 5 pins is meaningless. The 5th pin is not connected, a...

It's pretty simple, it's called "bad connections." The thing is, the more things that are shaky, the more stuff gets added into the stew pot of "trouble." Now it might just be that the twisted wire connections at the ECU ground and at the ballast resistor ARE NOT the full...

Not dependable.

Buddy TWISTING WIRES AROUND TERMINALS is no way to try and make connections. 1...As others have said the ignition module MUST BE GROUNDED. Not by a twisted wire, but BOLTED to a GROUND point. 2...The "whatever connectors" you are using into the ECU are QUESTIONABLE. I wasn't...

Yeh but "juz sayin" your gallions are bigger 'n ours!!

Since there have been changes in the "hot rod" aftermarket why not detail a few of these changes?

For one thing make absolutely sure you download "whatever files" it takes to define your present "tune" so that if "somebody" screws up you have a backup. And don't save it "there." Save at least two copies in different places, IE on your laptop maybe, and on a card/ USB...

You can drive ANYTHING on the street if you want to bad enough............ And of course there's this damn thing

Fuel, compression ratio, chamber design, cam design and cam timing, AND WEIGHT AND USE of the vehicle all play a part The "correct" answer for fuel mileage has always been "vacuum advance." "Back in the day" with "real" fuel and with a factory "high compression" 340 or 440 I...

If you never have, I would just do a through and complete tuneup 1...Do a compression test and leakdown test. I don't remember if the 74's have adjustable valves if so check them 2...Examine all ignition components condition, wires, cap, rotor, etc, and set timing. Don't set it to...

Seems to me in the long run you could do well to buy yourself a mother bottle. Hell maybe you could sell a little to the locals

If the original dist. was in good shape and running good it might be worth a try. Doing a bunch of changes and additions while attempting to diagnose a problem can ADD other problems

This should have been done by about post 3 of this thread

You can do the "cylinder kill" manually pretty easily. Pull the dist. boots up gently and loosen the wires in the cap. Couple ways to do this....... Take something like paper clips or small brads and slip down beside each wire. Now you can ground each cylinder with a grounded...

What you probably need to consider doing is to set yourself up with a much larger "mother" bottle. There's been a lot of BS but the fact is most ANY standard pressure bottle is easy to transfer 1..Get a mother bottle and depending on the setup, arrange it for liquid transfer (for...

I don't understand why a welding supply could not take care of this. Here in town, there are two different companies, and at least one handles all sorts of "bottled gas" besides argon, CO2, and oxy-acetylene. I don't think they hydro-test on site. I think they are sent off to the...

"Depends". Different engine builds "want" different timing, a hot cam, etc, but you can not just "pick" numbers because of the curve in your dist. The engine may "want" more at idle (initial) but if you are driving it you don't want it to over--advance, so you may have to adjust it for...

Start by warming up the engine fully. Get it to idle best you can and closest to target idle speed, by adjusting mixture and idle speed screws. Then carefully adjust timing for maximum smooth idle vacuum. "Temper" this with timing light readings so you don't get down the wrong...

Absolutely. It was a "one year only" federal mandated deal. My Gramps had a brand new Dart, nobody knew what to do with them back then. The Dealers finally started unhooking the seat switches under the seat. People raised hell about this. You can imagine, "one of the kids" causes...

OP: On a serious note, what is FAR more important to you as a '74 owner, is bypassing the dreaded seat belt interlock reset, read this: 74 Dart won't start - ignition switch - maybe starter relay?

You guys don't know WTF. That is the Chrysler version of the very first prototype of the flux capacitor, only Mopar called it.............

Lots of "reasons". You nip a curb, damage it, it rubs the flywheel, damaged, won't stay on, lazy mechanic. Of course in this day, we are all finding parts that have been junked, often/ most of the time missing hardware and "accessories." Easy to see, after 40-50 years, "they...