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If that much gas came out of the spark plug holes then you might have a lot of gas in your oil too. Probably need to change your oil so you don't ruin your bearings and scuff cylinder walls.

Need to order plug wires for my new small block that is going to have TTI step headers. Will straight boots work ok or do I need a different shape? Thanks for any help.

Thanks, I'm going to order a set.

What wires are you using? I am using the Pertronix coil.

Pertronix 40000 or 45000 volt coil. I have another one I will swap out tomorrow and check.

I can't check it with engine running because I can't get it to start but don't know how to check coil. Can you explain how? I have a meter but suck at electrical stuff. If you put one lead on the coil + where does the other lead go? Thanks for your help.

Changed rotor but no change. Cap looks good. Practically new. This crap is driving me crazy. I had a problem very similar to this before and it was was original firewall to block ground was bad. Replaced it Pulled number one plug and put thumb over hole. Used remote starter switch. Turned...

Yes, plenty of fuel shot . Practically new carb.

Changed the pertronix unit and coil but no change. Doesn't the fact that the coil is firing say that the coil and pertronix unit are good?

New parts store distributor with about a thousand miles on it. Didn't feel any play.

My engine went from running well to progressiveIy running worse and now not running. I have a Pertronix ignitor ignition system. I am getting intermittent spark at the plugs when I ground them. With the key on in "run" and grounding a plug on the exhaust manifold I get an intermittent spark...

Will do, thanks.

I think it's 1381. Distributor wires are attached as in diagram, ballast resistor bypassed, and using pertronix coil. Ran great before trouble started. Replaced old pertronix with identical new one because I thought it was failing but made no difference.

Thank you 67Dart273. I will work on your suggestions in the next couple of days. Fault should not be in Pertronix because I just replaced it with a new unit.

Right, it's a magnetic pickupin the distributor that replaces the points. So your coil just has 1 wire to each side? 2 total?

So there is only the dark blue to the pos side of the coil and the black distributor wire to the neg side? 2 wires total? Oil pressure sending unit wire with connector broken off makes sense. I have a temporary mechanical oil pressure gauge hooked up at the moment so the wire was dangling.

My dart has no spark coming from the coil wire. My car has the original wiring harness with a Pertronix ignitor 1 ignition conversion. The ballast resistor wires have been soldered together so the ballast resistor is bypassed per instructions by Pertronix. Car ran great until recently. Found a...

Seems like I read somewhere that not all aftermarket distributors are indexed like a factory distributor is. So maybe with the pump drive gear slot pointed at the first left intake bolt and the engine is at tdc, the rotor points at no 1 tower on the cap with the stock distributor. Say you...

On my car with the same symptoms it turned out my original firewall to block ground wire was bad. The connections at both ends were clean and tight and the wire tested good for continuity. Ground wire from battery to block was new and both connections clean and tight. Replaced firewall ground...

I had an ignition problem a few weeks ago. Pertronix ignition conversion. New engine, fired up immediately, ran well. 10 minutes later during cam break in at 2000 rpm, engine slowly decreased rpms, then died. Had good spark at coil, none at plugs. Had new neg batt cable with clean, tight battery...

If anyone is interested as to what the problem was it was a bad engine to firewall ground. I had cleaned both contact ends and tested the wire for continuity but evidently the wire itself was bad because I replaced it with a parts store braided ground strap and finally got spark to the plugs...

Would I be able to get a good enough ground by using an alligator clip jumper from the module to a ground just to test it enough to see if it works?

Can anyone tell me if a GM hei ignition module has to be grounded to work? Using it with a mopar electronic distributor on a 67 dart. Thanks.

I have a pertronix flamethrower 40111 epoxy coil listed in specs as 1.5 ohm and 10.60k secondary resistance. However, the label on the coil itself says 0.6 ohm. I removed the coil from the car for testing. With my free harbor freight meter on the lowest ohm setting of 200, I got 3.0 ohms for...

I'm starting to think a weak coil may be the problem. Found out specs for coil and will test it and run your test with the timing light also. Thanks

I only checked the coil tower lead for continuity. I did check 2 different wires with the spark plug attached and grounded for spark. As someone suggested earlier I did pull the distributor and check that the roll pin was in place. I do have new set of wires I could swap out but just didn't see...

I was wondering if that was just a mistype. Yep, it was worth a shot, thanks again for the effort.

I have a tach wire that goes to the neg side of the coil. Someone else had said something similar so I disconnected the tach wire to the coil but it made no difference. Thanks for responding.

I got some time today to work on this some more. Replaced rotor, rotated engine to TDC on compression stroke , ensured rotor was seated all the way down. Rotor was pointing at #1 tower on cap. Carbon button on cap intact. Spark at coil lead but not at grounded plug. Anyone have any more ideas?

I pulled the cap off and turned the engine over and verified that the rotor is turning. Pretty sure it is seated but will check again.