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From what I’ve seen, koffles dyno is pretty happy. In other words it’ll show big numbers..

Really doubt you can go wrong with either. Good thing about a big mopar is it’s really easy to try different intakes. Given the tiny camshaft and OD trans the dual plane will probably be a bit better for the low RPM stuff and a better choice. That being said, my 4000# roadrunner with a pump gas...

First outing since last august. Distributor pickup was the issue. Track wasn’t super great last night. Lots of street tire cars. Dart made a bunch of low ten teen passes. 1.43 60’s wheeling while spinning.. lol.. Did make one hit where it hooked after they drug the track and went 10.07. It’s...

Also lots of good reading here Holley

Did we ever figure out where the hole in the angle channel is going? Example of what you need for bleeds to drill #8-32 x 3/16" Coarse Thread Socket Set Screw Cup Point Brass | eBay

That’s big for MAB’s. Starting to explain why this this is why it is. Personally I’d bump those right down to around .028 myself. Kind of like been mentioned several times. Lay out all your bleed and orifice on a sheet of paper. Personally if it were mine I’d scrap the whole tune up and...

You need to open up your TSR first. Tune for cruise, then work on part throttle enrichment (accelerating from cruise) with the PV.

The whole size your pv from idle vacuum is false. There’s a lot of times I run a higher PV number than what an engine idles at. You adjust that too where you need the enrichment from a cruise state. You can’t compare the TSR to your dominator. Dominators typically require a smaller TSR due to...

That’s your lean cruise. Normaly those are in the .070’s range on a 4150. I’d start .078 as a starting point but, you could remove them initial pay for a drive to see how it acts.Where’s the hole going in your angle channel in the pic I posted? That main body doesn’t even appear to be drilled...

This shouldn’t be there

I use a tiny elec drill that’s about the size of a dremel. If your dremel has a chuck on it it should work long as you can slow the speed way down.

You need drill sets #1-60 and #61-80. 2 sets. The tiny bits need a really small drill chuck as well. You can find most of the stuff on eBay. Granted I know you have much more limited access over there so it may be a little more difficult. I think you’re going to learn a lot and I believe with...

Agree!

Just a thought, can the 3rd circuit be killed on those metering blocks (or main body’s) without affecting the operation of the normal 2 circuits? They can easily be tapped to make adjustable. Probably be my first option. If not then a new set of 2 circ blocks.

Nevermind, just read your whole post. Time for some new blocks. I’d scrap that whole 3 circuit idea, I know some guys think they are great. You don’t need it in dual 4150’s. I haven’t encountered a 3 circ 4150 yet, I see the main body has the bleeds though. Pretty strange, I’d love to have a...

Ok, yours are slightly different part number, don’t visually see the difference on the face. Could be an issue.

Those are 2 circ blocks, I use That exact block all the time. Agree your emulsion is jacked. Being multiple carbs I’d go down to only 1 and 4 at .026-.028. The lean symptom you describe at low rpm may be too much transfer slot restriction. Like RB said and I think I did previously, you need to...

That weight was with a TF. Hemi was iron headed though at that time. Should be a tad lighter this go around. Hopefully I’ve shaved 100-150 off it with the changes I’m making. I did run 4 speeds in it for a minute.

Here’s the TR set up we have floating around for the green car. A couple old downleg 780’s. It may find its way onto the current engine at some point.

Damn, I have some work to do on my dads 69.. my 68 was 3560. The 69

Looks great!

Good running combo with the 240’s. You ever weight it?

Should be bad *** when you get it dialed in!

That’s more my style grind for a carbureted application. Not sure how well the FI-tech is going to like it. I see a lot of guys get pretty frustrated with that system with almost stock type cams. Schneider is defiantly and old school cam company. I’ve used a few of their cams about 20 years ago...

Agree, that’s a lot of IAB for dual carbs. Sounds like it’s pretty good on cruise. what’s the MAB size? O2 meters are pretty accurate when calibrated. OEM wouldn’t use them if they were that bad. Pump premium and 110 are usually pretty good in the ranges I listed. When you get into oxygenated...

Generally if you have enough initial you can get them to idle around 13.5 range in neutral. It’ll put it around 14.0 in gear. If the idle circuit is set up right should only drop around 200 rpm. I target cruise ratio’s of mid to high 13’s low 14’s. They will cruise leaner but this seems to work...

You can just drop the primary’s. Take it or doesn’t have PV’s. Might be something to consider depending on your high speed cruise A/F. You have to upload to YouTube then post a link for video’s.

I don’t, while I think it would be nice to have one I think these people are nuts that try to sell them for the price of an aftermarket block. Biggest thing if you’re going to make a ton of power is just find a block with good thick cylinder walls and add caps. Preferably alum if you’re really...

Not currently. We have too many low decks to get rid of any parts.. lol

I’ll be curious to see your results, gonna get any track data this year? I have an low deck Indy tunnel ram floating around but wasn’t sure if the gains are with the hassle.