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https://drcolorchip.com/ Not saying that I used their product, but their commercials are interesting.

I use a silicone squeegee and a microfiber towel, if I do a full wash. I normally only use the show wax/rub off thing though. Wash once every two years or more.

Love the BX23S!

@mopardude318 I built a similar building (we call it the barn because we already have a garage). It’s 20x 30 with a 10 foot side shed on it. It has 12 foot high side walls. I built the barn doors myself, using two Unistrut tracks with rollers at the top and rubber wheels on the bottom of each...

I used a Wi-Fi repeater that piggy-backs on a dedicated power circuit to my pool-house. This is about 75 feet away, but it should go much further.

@pishta Yankee ingenuity!

Just put screws directly in the tread area. Like studded snow tires.

I lived in Alaska for 3 years before (as a kid), and I was never so cold in my life as Kunsan in the ROK! The winds blowing off the Yellow Sea were outrageous.

I survived 1 and a 1/4 winters in very cold Korea with two kerosene heaters to heat my 1 bedroom apartment. No supplemental heat either except a Coleman white gas camp stove while fixing dinner. It was enough to make us feel comfortable, but we had to shut it off at night to avoid asphyxiation.

I’ve done this with two simple/unsophisticated compressors with tanks and interconnecting them with a flexible air line. Each compressor shuts down when it’s pressure switch shuts It down, but the other runs and charges both tanks until it too shuts down. Neither compressor has an unloader...

Then everything should be A Okay. Proceed without worry.

How deep are the perimeter footings? Are they below frost depth? Are their bottoms all on the same plane and is that plane level?

You are asking a question that most attorneys would never answer more than “it all depends” in response. Was the ground under everything flattened and leveled out before the gravel was placed? Was the ground then compacted with a vibratory plate compactor? What kind of gravel was used (river...

Frost heave. This is down below the frost heave depth, if you need to worry about that. Otherwise, it’s not needed.

Yes, the pins will transmit part of the load into the adjacent slab. But it will be more of a bending moment force than anything. This will make the smaller new concrete act like it is much bigger than it’s actual size.

1/2” is great. Yes, that it the correct tool. Fiber is not necessary. Uncoated rebar is fine. The little bit of rust that may form on it gives it bite into the concrete. The rebar lends tensional strength to the concrete as concrete is only really strong in compression.

That would work too, and would be preferable. It won’t matter if the control joint dead ends into the new concrete sides. But as @Dicer recommended, use an edging tool to round over the perimeter edge of the new concrete, as it will likely crack in that joint. A rounded over edge would hide...

No problem. Cracks do form in concrete. That doesn’t mean it will fail. The pins and rebar will keep it all together.

No vapor barrier on the walls - just the bottom. 1/2” rebar is fine. The control joint is most likely just a saw cut that is 1” deep (1/4th the depth of the slab). Just cut right through that joint (put your saw blade right in it and saw the rest of the way through the slab) and dig it out...

The pin should be tight in the hole. When people are tying two large slabs together, one end of the pin is epoxied in and the other end is greased - but they use expansion joint filler between the two slabs. You won’t be doing that. No, you won’t be compromising the 4” slab. Just center...

Even with the control joint.

I would extend the size to meet the control joint because leaving a 2 inch wide strip between your new concrete and the joint will make it crack at the corners. So make your cutout 36” x 38”. A 4’x4’ box is way overkill. They recommend rebar in the new concrete. It wouldn’t hurt and then you...

They should be large enough so that the nearest an anchor bolt will be to a new edge is at least 4 inches. So you can make it 8 inches wider and longer than the baseplate. I myself like to oversize things, so 4 inches to edge is a minimum. 6 inches would be better. If you go that route, make...

Yes, you need to tie the new concrete into the old with pins. Drill holes into the sides of the new pits and insert either cut rebar or bolts (3/8 inches or more in diameter) into them, so they are embedded into the old concrete and the new concrete at least 3 inches in each. Use at least two...

If I was going to break out and repour a section of the concrete floor to make it thicker, I would also make a template to match the anchor bolts and cast in L anchor bolts. I’d also side drill into the sides of the new hole and place pins into them before pouring, to tie the new concrete into...

I used Alumilite resin and mold making silicone to cast a 3 inch gear. I reused the original gear’s metal hub in the mold. It had a lot of air bubbles in it because I didn’t follow the instruction to put it in a pressure pot to force out the air, but it was still plenty strong.

The black gloves from HF with cotton glove liners underneath them to soak up the sweat. US $10.7 50% OFF|MUSEYA 12 Pairs of White Cotton Gloves Health Music Canvas Beauty Work Liner Mittens-in Men's Gloves from Apparel Accessories on AliExpress - 11.11_Double 11_Singles' Day

Awesome, I didn’t see that! Many thanks from a former AK resident.

Looking at buying a new 4 post lift. It comes with casters so it can be moved around. The dealer says it is comparable with a Nationwide unit (same price). I saw a “made in the USA” decal on the Auto Lift unit, so I would prefer to buy from USA manufacturer. I will use it to store my 1968...

It’s most likely condensation. When the surface temperature is lower than the dew point, water vapor in the air will condense on the surface. Therefore this will happen on high humidity days when the slab temperature is cooler than the dew point. This is tough to fix without lowering the...