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The starter problem is more likely a hanging ignition switch. They are pretty cheap to replace. I’d start there. Good luck!

As far as I know, the only spring is inside the master cylinder. I’ve never seen a pedal return spring on any brake pedal in my life - though my experience is very limited pre-1967. I too would advise you to adjust the activation switch.

The white arrow shows a problem at the shoe pivot point. The shoe should always remain on this pivot during all modes of operation. The white arrow with the blue outline shows that the guide washer is not fully seated on the pivot post. This will allow the shoes to wander off the pivot post.

If moisture got into the caliper's piston, rust will form and may prevent the piston from returning (releasing). If this is the problem, a rebuild or replacement is in order for the caliper.

Thanks for the step-by-step instructions with photos and parts list! I wonder of the original system had a warning light system (I never had a single type brake hydraulic system)? If so, then switching to a front/rear distribution block will enable sending the signal to the warning light...

Here is a link that will get you a full conversion kit: https://scarebird.com/index.php?route=product/product&path=64&product_id=143 Or you could just buy the conversion plates and buy all the remaining parts at home. I believe the brackets allow you to use Chevy calipers and Toyota rotors...

Is your life or that of your wife worth keeping a single reservoir master cylinder? Switch it! Ma Mopar did this for a reason - safety! BTW, if 67dart273 says it, you'd better believe it!

Use them! They are better than steel because they will never rust and they are much cheaper than stainless steel. Very easy to get smooth bends in them without kinking.

The turn signal switch behind the steering wheel can cause this too. Do you have working rear turn signals? If not and the fuse is not blown, then it may be time for a new turn signal switch. But don't just swap it and see, make some voltage measurements.

If the problem manifests on one side of the car only (I.e. left side locks up while right side doesn't), then I would also double check the brake lines into the proportioning block to ensure the front brakes are both on the rear reservoir of the master cylinder (since the lines were replaced by...

I built a momentary contact switch into a short piece of PVC tube 1" diameter. Then wired it into the switch and included a three foot long extra wire to allow me to stow it under the front seat. Then to use it, I pull it out and switch it with my left hand.

For many cars, that is not a "proportioning valve". It is a pressure differential sensor that activates the brake warning light on the dash if there is an imbalance between front and rear brake line pressure. This usually indicates a problem with the master cylinder or a leak somewhere. This...

You recall correctly!

Are the bleed screws located at the top of each caliper? If not, then they are trapping air in them. Maybe previous owner bled them while removed from the mounts so he could move the bleeder screws to the top and then he reinstalled them on the mounts? If this is the case, then the calipers...

Check the wheel cylinders too. I've seen them rusted solid, so they would never engage the shoes at all. Having this happen to one front wheel will cause you to spin during an attempted panic stop.

I'll guess that you adjusted the adjusters correctly so that they are causing the shoes to lightly drag on the drums. If so, then yes, it is probably time for a rebuild or replacement of your master cylinder. Did you remove the master cylinder and empty it? If so, then did you bench bleed it...

Did you "bench bleed" the master cylinder BEFORE you installed it in the car??? If not, then that's your problem. If so, then probably still got air in the lines or a leak.

On a disc brake set-up, make sure the brake line/bleeder is at the highest point of the caliper (when installed). Otherwise, you will have trapped air in the caliper that will never be bled out.