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cure time depends on a lot of things, type of paint, how thick it was put on, air temp... etc. As a general rule, you can wet sand it a lot sooner and without gumming up your sandpaper. I would wet sand it starting with 180-220 and going finer from there. If it starts gumming up, just break the...

I have 2 that I had new mirror glass installed in. I have been thinking about putting one on the pass side and replacing the driver side... but I have not gotten a round tuit!

That is a bummer! you'll need to let it dry real well and repaint.

if the welds are still fine, I'd finish cleaning the rust out and smooth it over with some filler with fiberglass strands in it (Duraglass or Dynaglass). then use regular filler for the final coat.

X2, Why Imron, are you trying to match body color? Do you have a bunch of extra or something? What look and color are you trying to end up with? I am assuming if you are even thinking of brushing it on, looks are not a big concern. I would spray it, not use a brush. Since it is on the...

X3 on using a hydraulic shop press. I have done that on a few, way better looking than a hammer, easier to control, and quieter (LOL)

I thought that was stock! Both sides of my Barracuda look like that... (LOL) they were like that when I got it.

there's 2 BIG ones in the trunk.... that's why it is sitting so low!

I use a piece of plexiglas to mix on, before the bondo hardens (right when it is starting to) you can scrape off the plex and your tools then clean them up with laquer thinner and a piece of scotch bright. Good call on folding instead of stirring, one thing I was told by a friend that ran a body...

X2 on the cheese grater etc... also, if someone local can come over and spend an hour or two showing you, it will save you a ton of time figuring it out. I would if I was near you.....

leaving them bare will discolor over time, you can have them powdercoated... or paint them a silver and put clear over them. I normally start with an etching primer, then paint color so it lasts longer.... I would be worried about adhesion if I just put a clear over them

I use 3m super duty rubbing compound... and as was stated before, watch edges and ridges.... something ti think about.... all the time you saved using a machine will be spent repairing the spots you burned through. Been there, done that... as was also stated before, practice on an old panel of...

X2 on wiper pivot seals and rear window gasket. Small holes in the floorboards will also make your carpet wet when you drive it in the rain....

Just be careful with the more aggressive paper or fiber discs that you don't get the metal too hot and warp it.....

spray the heck out of them with some penetrating oil for a couple days....If they are real rusty, when you take them off, as you loosen them up, loosen them maybe 1/2 -3/4 turn then tighten again and go back and forth, loosen and tightening them and spraying with more penetrating oil and...

I believe there is a wire that is hot whenever the key is on. If that is bad, it won't return to the park position.

my son in law had a 65 Fury that the back door latches had gotten so wet over the years, they were rusted shut. We soaked them in penetrating oil for a week or so then went in through the inside of the door with a long screw driver and manually activated the gear on the latch till they opened...

make sure your buffing wheel is on slow speed and use plenty of compound... the less compound, the easier it is to burn the paint.... or you can do it by hand if you are not used to using a buffer (or don't have one). If you feel like a drive south on a weekend, I'd be glad to give you a hand...

I agree, I think they are all pot metal.

I would do as suggested and stay away from the vinyl top. If you put another vinyl top on it, you will most likely have the same issues down the road.

that looks awesome! ALL OF IT!!!

as far as I know, the newer windshields that are flush-mounted sit on the windshield frame with a bead of bedding between the metal and glass. An older style windshield is just a tad bit smaller than the actual opening and the rubber kind of holds it suspended in place. Maybe I'm missing what...

as far as type of paint, I have used engine paint as well as header paint (or wood-stove paint). If you are braking hard, the drums might get a bit o nthe hot side for engine paint though.

I had a 57 Chev shorty wagon, it looked pretty cool, there was another on that I used to see at the local car shows that had the top chopped, it made the fenders and rest of the body look really fat, I thought it looked terrible. Also, a friend of mine owned a glass shop and did a lot of custom...

great post Dan! I sent the LED info to my dad. He is restoring a 1040 Chev 4 door sedan and was going to use LEDs in the tail lights. (making his own setup because they are all rusted out). Hopefully this will get him thinking!

most of your acrylic lacquer primer is like a sponge... you will need to sand it all off after driving it over the winter... I made the mistake of driving my 1st car around in primer... then sanded it smooth and painted it. The primer had absorbed road grime, which filled in the pores with oil...

I always use Duraglass then top it off with regular filler for the final finish. Just don't put it on and let it set for a few days before sanding... it gets HARD!!

a bit of rain on the air cleaner will not hurt it much. Worse case, it will partially plug the very front of it causing it to suck more air through the sides and rear of the cleaner. As far as everything else getting wet, not a big deal as far as driveability. I live in Seattle and had a 1950...