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It's the same length. I pulled the slant 6 & 3 on the tree manual trans from my '65 Valiant. I installed a 318 and early 833 4 speed (with ball and trunnion) and the driveshaft bolted right back up.

I've done it. You cut the welds near the U joint, and it slides out of the driveshaft which is just a tube. You cut it where you want it, on a chop saw is probably best to get a straight cut. Then slide the end back in, and weld it. I haven't had one vibrate, unless you totally warp the thing.

Yep, Kim built me one for my '70 Dart 340 and the 340 is far from stock. I've driven it hard with no problems at all. And, even with driving out to pick it up, the overall cost including gas was cheaper than getting one built here. And I got to stop in Cranbrook at Dartnut's place and see his...

Check the linkage underneath, make sure when you shift to Park that the tranny linkage is actually in Park.

As for your drums, don't bother welding the old holes. Just drill the new ones for the 4.5" bolt pattern. Oops, '72 beat me to it.

Let's see some pictures, I love those trucks.

My '65 W500 would do that sometimes, similar situation with a 318 Poly and NP435. Even with climbing under and seeing a small gap between the clutch and flywheel, it just wasn't big enough of a gap. Try laying under it and carefully slide a flat screwdriver in to separate the two, and have a...

I wouldn't say they're junk, just not really worth swapping under your A body.

Oh, what's a couple dents in the floor board from the driveshaft smashing it on every rotation. I'm sure I'm not the only one who's been there.

Check to see where it's leaking from. Could be the front shaft seal (bellhousing area).

No no, sorry, should have clarified. I pulled the 318/904 combo from the 85 Chrysler, and dropped it in the Dart. Have an 8 3/4 with 3.23's in it. When driving, I remember 3rd gear would start to rev higher, then kick down a little making the RPM's a little lower. The Valiant has a 7 1/4...

The only place it isn't leaking from is the pan. Basically, fill up the tranny, drive for however long, no leaks. Don't drive the car for a week, entire amount of tranny fluid ends up on the ground. I'm sick of replacing seals and still having this problem. I also remember the 80's tranny...

Ah, gotcha. Can't check until I get home in a week. I'll check back in then.

So I called Dacco yesterday morning and asked about the 962-s lockup converter. After being transferred 6 times, I was able to talk to someone about that converter, which they couldn't find. They then took my information for the motor/tranny I'm running, and said they had to look into custom...

Great info, thank you!

Thank you very much, and thanks Okla. Very glad to hear it. With the Dacco converter, I don't need any adapter bushing I take it?

Alright, so I spoke with Pat Blais who told me.. "Mike, Now I get the picture: 1985 TF-998 or TF-999 to be installed behind the 1965 273. Problem is that the torque converter pilot hole at the rear of the early 273 crankshaft measures 1.51” I.D and the 1985 converter pilot measures...

Thank you very much, great info.

The 904 behind the 273 in my 65 Valiant leaks pretty bad out of where the cables go into it. I do have a good 998/999(?) from an 85 Chrysler, which seems to have some sort of overdrive in it. Will the converter from the newer transmission work? I realize I'll need a yolk and the shifter linkage...

I took a set off an 80's Dodge Ram, 318/727. I cut them shorter at the rad end and re flared. Had to add some extra slight bends, but they were in good shape and free. You can also buy lines from your parts store in bulk.

What did the GM 200R4 come in?

Try reversing a few feet and then putting it in. Same with when you go to take it out of low.. If it is stuck in low, try reversing a few feet.

X2. Here's pictures to back it up. The wheels aren't stock, but the axles/housings have never been swapped out. 1965 Fargo W300. Dana 70 front and rear. 1966 Dodge W300. Dana 70 front and rear. 1966 Dodge W500 (blue box). Dana 70 front and rear. My W100 came with 8 3/4 rear, Dana 44...

Fair enough, but I'm just trying to keep it clear that you don't HAVE to change everything over. It's a lot cheaper to drill your SBP drums to the larger pattern, than to buy everything new.

Why did you change backing plates? If you have 10" backing plates on an 8 3/4, and you buy new LBP axles, you shouldn't have to change backing plates. You can buy axles from Moser for under $300, which are stock A body length, and use your original brake parts. Just redrill the drums for LBP. I...

No, keep your original backing plates, hardware, etc. just drill your drums for the new bolt pattern.

You sure it's an 8 1/4? They weren't stock in 68, just 73+ I believe. Unless someone swapped it in at some point.

Do you mean width from drum to drum? Or spring perch to spring perch? Which rear is it? 7 1/4, or 8 3/4?

Which Ford transmission, and what did it come in? Give me the years and models it came in. Is it a direct bolt on?

Thanks for the info. Is the A999 an overdrive?