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I do have ARP head studs... I believe i have a HV oil pump... when i crank the engine over with no spark plugs or fuel in it, and valve covers off. oil starts dripping off the top of the valve springs and i had to grab some rags before it makes a mess... The guy i bought the new shafts from...

getting ready to go to the Silverwood Coaster Classic Car show this labor day weekend in Athol, ID Its disheartening to think that i only get to take this car out once a year...anyway here is an update with bad news... i took the rocker shafts off to see how they were doing and they are...

It's going good so far, I still need to tear it down and inspect it this winter, to see how things are wearing. Alot of people are suggesting a geometry correction kit. I am thinking I should just make the jump and convert to roller rockers. I'm trying to get this done this winter so I can...

40 lbs at installed height, 200 lbs at full cam lift. So 160 lb springs. In order to get the hole that is under the rocker arm to get oil of top of the valve retainer I had to mark and drill the shaft at full valve lift, and it's still boarder line.

I have a feeling these are some heavy springs, I am going to measure them to find out. Those springs in the picture are the light springs for mock up. The new shafts I got from OE push rods, have the holes in a different location as the stock ones. I got my custom push rods, so I'm going be...

So I got the holes drilled in the rockers. And I see a problem. The holes are under the top of the spring retainers...so if I drill the hole on the shaft while on the cam base circle the oil will miss the top of the valve tip. So I would have to locate that oil hole lower on the shaft so when...

ok so lets make the two holes in the rocker arm 1/8" (.125") The 3 oclock hole in the shaft 3/32" (.093"). 6 oclock hole in the shaft, 1/8" with banana groove, and the 9 oclock hole 1/8" With alignment like this first picture with the 3 yellow dots

Everyone good with the hole locations in the shaft and rocker? The updated picture shows the two yellow and one green dot for the three holes in the shaft per rocker location With the bottom hole having the banana grove. I see what you guys are talking about with the stamped steel hold downs...

yeah i got a set of .015" shims so i can really dial that stuff in, RR recommended no tighter than .015" per pair of rockers. Here is a some pictures of the machine work to the top of the rockers. Any other input guys on that last keyboard full, i would like to firm up that procedure. I am...

important update.... Has anyone here done the drilling in the shafts themselves? How did they drill? I just talked to Don at OE push rods and he had indicated that i may have a hard time drill those holes because they are hardened (this must have been that coating that i chipped off in in the...

oh ya i forgot about measuring the installed height, got ahead of myself since i had them off, thought i would check them. But i will have to put one back on to measure what the installed height from top of bottom shim to top of spring retainor. Then put that in the spring press and then...

here comes another keyboard full, but wait there is pictures at the end! LOL Do we need to be concerned that the 3 o clock and 9 o clock holes will still line up, even though they are at different angles? Green highlighted line shows it going straight through. The blue line is what we talked...

ohhhh ok, yes the rocker arm has three holes, i thought you were talking about 3 holes in the shaft. The rocker arm will have two holes when i am done (access hole plugged with set screw, hole at 9 o clock, and top hole brazed shut, and drill one hole under the arm of the rocker at 3 oclock)...

I got the top hole of the rockers brazed, i used silicone bronze tig rod and tig brazed them, it went ok. I ended up using the same method to plug the holes in the shafts, it went ok until i was machining the welds down smooth in the lathe when i realized the shafts are chromed and the lathe...

ok i will digest this and reformulate the procedure for review. unfortunately my engine is together and in the car, so i cant change the cam bearings at this point, but that is good info. Do you think i will be ok with the stock setup of the cam bearings? .100" too much for the valve tip...

i see what you mean about how if those two holes are lined up at the same time...the oil pressure inside the rocker shaft will drop. i kind of like your idea of drilling the hole under the rocker arm at a different angle, so it doesn't line up with the other side. I drew a red drill bit onto the...

ok here is a couple more pictures, when i first read RR's method it sounded like he was running the drill bit through the two push rod holes (using those two holes like a drill guide) I think my drawing got a little wonky and i was confused about RR's picture because the two files he stuck in...

ok this is what i came up with, double check my procedure #1 fill the top hole of the rocker arm using brazing material. (many different methods, just avoid putting to much heat into the rocker arm) #2 using the two existing holes in the valve lash adjuster threaded bore as a guide, drill...

Ok I'm following all that except, my shafts only have 1 hole per rocker and without banana groove. I am going to solder that one hole shut, and add two holes, locations transferred from the two holes in the rocker arm on base circle of cam So I won't have an hole where the bottom of rocker...

i also still haven't figured out what i am going to do for push rods...everyone online only has 9 of the RP-3159 push rods, so that must mean they are getting them from the manufacture and that all they have? i dont know why its so hard to get these push rods, there has to be something else out...

Rockers: braze shut the top rocker hole, ok, what brazing material/method have you found works best? Also with the top hole plugged, how does the top of valve and tip of rocker get oil? I found a 7/64 drill bit fits (little under .100") fits nicely in the two holes for the valve lash adjuster...

What are you guys running for push rods? Is there anyway you guys can make a drawing or some good pictures? My brain starts hurting after a long day at work. I keep confusing my self with where to plug and where to drill.

summits website is still screwed up, plus they are backordered....ughh.... i found these on jegs, they are pretty close, what do you guys think i should do for push rods... COMP Cams 7822-16: High Energy Pushrod Set Chrysler 273-360ci 1964-86 Solid Lifters w/Adjustable Rocker Arms | JEGS

so i got the complete set of 273 valve train...these also only have one hole per rocker, and no banana grooves. Also looks as if they have the same galling marks that i have. Looks like i am just going to have to drill holes and add banana grooves. I have a nice big swing drill press at work...

Where do i find that? i did a google search and couldnt come up with anything. Summits website is down today for some reason. I am getting a set of 273 rocker arms and shafts from Jon monday, and then i will have to look at this stuff closely. I might have to upload some pictures for...

Wow there was alot in that thread...i have the 340 single hole shafts, and my rockers have alot of galling in them. Is everyone having good results from that thread? So i am getting a set of 273 rocker arms and 273 shafts from a guy for a $100. What do you think is the best route to go...

Ok so zero lash plus a full turn on the adjuster. I did find some of my adjuster came out really easy, so they might have been moving around which would cause the push rods to bend? I have contacted Jon Dunken, he is an awesome local mopar guy that i ran into, he is going to find out if he has...

71duster06, what did you end up going with? I have a similar setup in my 70 dart. I need to get some racing push rods that will hold up. Also i need to get different shafts that have two oil holes.

So the PO must have used the stock 340 shafts? My shafts have one hole per rocker. There is also talk about banana grooves. What would be the best bet, try to find the correct shafts (wrecking yards used, or new after market?) or drill the additional hole and add banana grooves? I think that is...

ok i will have to try it out when i get the new push rods and adjuster screws. What do you guys think about those lifters locking up like that? its bizzare, take it apart, put it back to gether and then it works, that might have something to do with that one push rod that got bent and broken...