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I've heard that you can get the initial timing by warming the engine up to operating temp, advance the timing a bit, let it idle a few minutes, shut it down, let it heat soak a couple minutes, and try turning it over. Advance the initial timing until you get kickback or it's labored turning...

I thought I had read up on programmable ignitions, but I've never used one, so I wanted to see if I understood the setup. I didn't catch what you're running for a cam (I probably didn't ask), but that's quite a bit of compression. How did you arrive at your current timing curve? Since you've...

Let me see if I'm picking up what you're putting down and we'll go from there... You have a programmable ignition setup and, if I understand them correctly, most of those boxes/distributors work by taking timing out instead of adding it. You need to lock out the distributor at 40 degrees and...

I fought with a similar issue last summer where the alternator was putting out 15+ volts and found the problem to be in the harness connector on the steering column that has the ignition switch on it. The connections were severely corroded and the harness connector was partially melted. I wound...

I may be imagining things, but I'd rather go through it and be sure than run the risk of frying the new harness I put in or an electrical fire. It has electronic ignition, so no points. With the exception of the dash lights, none of the other lights are in the car yet. There's no stereo in the...

All of it? I was under the impression that the amp meter should not show a significant discharge with the key on and all accessories off. Isn't the coil voltage supposed to be closer to 9.0v in run and 12.0v in start?

I've been chasing an electrical problem for a few weeks and trying to get the car roadworthy for an alignment this weekend. The car is a 74 Duster that I bought last year that had been mostly disassembled, so I'm working with a basically unknown car. Here are the symptoms, maybe you guys could...