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42 RE Transmission Pan Skid Plate P0780

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If not, just throw a cheap, eBay sushi slicer on it. :D

Stumbled across this thread again tonight, any updates?

He’s talking about spring perch width after doing a 3” spring relocation, not axle width.

Yea it definitely has a pretty good vibration on decel and when I have the throttle in just enough so the rpm aren’t dropping but the engine isn’t pulling it also vibrates quite a bit. I’ll buy a pack of 1* shims and mess around with it and see what I can mess up. :D

The nose of the pinion is pointed down exactly like the drawing. That’s what had kept running me for a loop earlier is every online calculator etc. says it’s “up” when the NOSE is down. They start and the very front of the car and keep working back, hard to explain, but anyway. So yeah, all my...

Probably. :BangHead: :rofl: The reason I ask about the u-joint working angle though is TREMEC’s app recommends no more than a 3* u-joint working angle. That said, lifted pickups and muscle cars with a lot of rake are running way more than that so I’m sure you’re right, I’m way over thinking this.

How critical is the u joint working angle? If I leave the tail of the transmission pointing down 2.4* like it is currently and roll the pinion so the yoke is at 0*-.4* up (allowing 2-2.4* rotation) that would give me a u joint working angle of 7.3*. I could raise the trans to point .9* down and...

The NOSE (yoke) of the pinion is pointing down 2* currently

So, going off of what this is saying, I need to RAISE the nose of my pinion to about .4-.5* UP instead of 2* down like it currently is. My vibration is when I decelerate so it makes sense since there’s currently 4.4* difference between my transmission and pinion. I’ll have to order me some shims...

Ok guys, I finally got me a digital level and rechecked my angles today. Here is what I currently have. I’ve been racking my brains the past 45 minutes trying to figure this out, using the Mopar Chassis manual and online info and I just flat can’t wrap my mind around it. Any help would be much...

Well, the tight u joint was definitely a HUGE contributor to the vibration. I got the new unjoints in and it’s a ton better though I think the angles may still be off as the u joint only had a few thousand miles on it, max, since I put it in 2 years ago

Thanks for the reminder! I actually do have that book! I’ll have to dig it out!

If it ever stops raining here tomorrow I’ll measure again off the pan rail or off the crank pulley. I’ll also see if I can scare up a digital smart level from anyone around here.

So here’s where I got my angles from, on the end of the transmission output shaft and the face of the pinion yoke. REAR of the trans was 3* down, FRONT of the pinion yoke was 1* down.

Ooohhh. Now I think I get what you’re saying. I just realized I may have been measuring wrong. I was measuring the differential and trans angle off of level/the ground and not off of the driveshaft. I’ll see if I can’t get the u joints changed this weekend and get the driveshaft back in and...

Well that makes sense. So my tail housing is 3 down, driveshaft is 1 down and pinion is 1 down. So sitting still, my front and rear angles are both 2, right?

Yea I’ll see how it is after new ujoints. I have a few plates in the transmission mount but I also have a homemade mount since I’m running an AX15 transmission from a dakota.

One thing to keep in mind is that these angles were all taken with my iPhone and a cheap harbor freight angle finder. I would really like to get ahold of a good, digital smart level or something to really nail the angles down.

Here’s a rough sketch of what I’m talkin bout. Sitting still the rear of my trans is pointing 3* down and the front of my pinion yoke is pointing 1* down. Now if it makes any difference, the driveshaft goes down from the tail housing to the differential at 1* as well. Then as you can see in the...

Here’s where I’m thinking that I should be alright with how it is. My tailhousing is down 2-3* so under acceleration the front of my differential should be pointed up a 2-3* to match the tail housing. I think. Lol

Awesome. Thanks. Not sure what springs are in it but they’re not SS’s, I’m guessing they’re the originals.

Quick question, I finally measured my driveline angles last night and is is what I found. My transmission is 3* down and my differential is 1* down. So in theory, if my pinion rotates up 4* under acceleration, that would put the trans at 3* down and the diff at 3* up and should be right where I...

:rofl:

If you zoom in on that second pic, you can see the shift patterns in the top right hand corner. Looks like they shift the same as the Kildif

I believe @FredS has built some high horsepower handling A500’s

The full length 8.8s will fit in a Duster but Idk about barracudas. Either way, you’ll need to move the spring perches

It's junk. Please send it to me and I'll "repurpose" it as needed. :D

:eek: That's preeeetty...