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I’ve heard (still haven’t tried it) that if you wire a resistor or a regular incandescent bulb in junction with your dash lights, the LEDs will dim properly.

I’ll have to research how to map the vacuum advance. I do have a new set of plugs to put in. By “rip it once” do you mean install, start the car, rev it up, shut it down? Or take it for a short rip on the street?

Ok, so I left the Fbo plate in but I installed it to allow 14* degrees mechanical for a total of 30*. I removed the black spring that I had installed and reinstalled the long looped factory spring like mattax had suggested. Here’s my new curve. It jumped from 16* at 1000rpm to 22* at 1250, so I...

My governor is stamped 15L so would that make it add 30 degrees mechanical? So maybe I should run the Fbo plate (same as welding up the slots)?

I hadn’t seen that first thread, lots of good info there for sure! Thanks!

I did install an Fbo limiter plate as well, I currently have it set to 18, so 16+18=34. Would you recommend setting it to 12-14 instead for a total of 30-32? Now, to throw a wrench in all of this… I do have speedmaster heads and a bigger cam that I’ll be installing hopefully this year sometime...

Yeah the black spring I put in puts tension on the weight when the t-handle thingy is installed. So basically, pull that black spring back out and put in the long loop spring and remap it and see where it’s at?

Here’s a photo of just the new curve to make it a little less confusing.

So after running an eBay Ready-to-Run Hei distributor for the past 5-6 years, I finally got around to putting a timing light on it and mapping out the advance curve. Come to find out, the curve was severely lacking! I ended up swapping out that distributor with a factory electronic distributor...

2.5 years later, did the final curve end up working well for you?

@dartfreak75 were you able to get timing curve all straightened out?

Probably a little overkill, but here’s how I did it on mine.

I plan on doing a 392/8hp70 swap eventually and plan on buying a Mopar ECU and harness and the transmission controller and harness from Russell at Sound German

Yeah I think I bought 3 or 4 sets back when rockauto had them for like $7 apiece or something like that. Haven’t used any of them yet, since I’m running LEDs in my Duster. Probably use a set in my valiant and Scamp then though. Maybe.

So, do you know, are these Hei distributors the same internally as a regular sbm distributor?

Has anyone here recurved a drop in ready-to-run HEI distributor? I have one in my Duster and I’d like to see about optimizing the ignition curve. Here’s one pretty well identical to the one I have. SB Mopar Dodge Chrysler Ready To Run Ignition Distributor HEI 273 318 340 360 | eBay Thanks in...

I’ve got several sets of nighthawks. I need to put a set in my Duster and see how much it improves

Any plans to come visit family anytime soon?

Funny you should bring this up. My wife and I took my Duster out for supper Tuesday night and she mentioned that I need to find a way to get delayed dimming interior lighting. So I’m looking forward to see how this little module works for you.

The shrink tube shrunk before the solder melted on these but I just kept sweeping back and forth and turning the wire and the solder melted nicely without the plastic melting at all.

Ok so these are connectors I ended up buying on amazon. Here’s how they look on the wire before being shrunk And here’s after it’s shrunk with the low (750*) setting on a heat gun. As you can see, the solder melted very nicely. This was a test piece of wire so I grabbed ahold of bothe ends...

I think I’ll order me some and try them out. I’m in the middle of modifying a 5.9 Magnum wiring harness to go in my Duster so I’ll definitely have plenty of use for them.

Anyone use connectors like this? Are they as good as the videos for them make them look? Thanks in advance. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07JGQFJK2/?tag=joeychgo-20

Column is currently in pieces, awaiting for me to have time to repaint it and swap in the wiring from my parts car.

Hooked my multimeter to the melted wire in the switch connector and in the off position there’s definitely a short in the switch. Run and start positions show no irregularities. Got the column all torn apart, gonna repaint it while it’s apart then put in the ignition switch from a 72 Valiant...

So how would I see how much current everything is pulling to get the proper sized fusible link?

Yea I need to see what size maxi fuse it’d take to put in there.

Ammeter is bypassed as well as having the main power to/from the interior bypassing the bulkhead connector. Tbh, I don’t know if I even have a fusible link. I may have accidentally cut it out when I did the bulkhead bypass

I actually deleted the ammeter and replaced it with a volt meter

Ok guys, I THINK i have a short in the ignition wiring. When the key is in the run position, there’s no power, when it’s in the start position I have 12v to everything but it won’t crank, if I jump the starter the car will stay running when thekey is held in the start position. If I turn the key...