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I’ll see his cat and raise him 2 goats!

That orange Duster was built by a member on here. Here’s the build thread for it. the"Busted knuckle duster"

I’d planned on swapping the front clip from my 4dr 67 Valiant onto a 75 Duster that I had, but then I sold the Duster to buy back my first car, a 75 Scamp. I then thought about putting the 67 clip on the Scamp to make another version that was never offered in 67, but I’ve decided to leave the...

Definitely sounds like someone drilled/tapped the holes after stripping out one of the bolts. Same thing happened at some point on my Duster. I have two or three different size bolts holding my hood on and one of those is stripped too. I either need to do like RRR suggested and replace the plate...

Practice in welding is definitely something I can use more of! I should get plenty in the next few weeks, between the floor pans and subframe connectors.

Yeah I haven’t read a single good thing about those split pans. If I would’ve bought that one, I would’ve cut it up into patches and that would’ve sucked too.

I ended up buying the nicer, stamped, one piece Sherman pan from jegs for $91 vs the eBay one with those janky split corners for $65

Well, ordered the $91 stamped Sherman panel from jegs. I thought about just por15ing it as I know I’ll be back in there later but I just decided that if I’m patching all the other holes in the floor now and painting the floor pan, I may as well do it right so I know I never have to mess with it...

Well that’s just it, if I had a new pan, I’d just swap the whole thing. I have a good rear pan in a parts car that I’ll be using in the passenger rear, but unfortunately, the passenger front in that car is toast. I guess if I’m gonna make a patch for that corner, it wouldn’t be just too much...

Hey everyone, my passenger front floor pan has one section that I need to cut out and replace, but it’s also has some heavy pitting here and there with some small pin holes. Everything around the pin holes is really solid and I’d like to not have to cut out the whole pan and replace it if I...

That’s awesome! One thing that just dawned on me, I have a Duster and my trunk lid is quite a bit smaller and probably a fair amount lighter than a 67 Dart’s. So the 100 pounders might actually work well for me.

Thank you, Maurice! Lots of great info! So am I reading correctly that you currently have just the struts hooked up? And not the torsion bars to assist in lifting?

IF I do the blackout treatment, I’d experiment on another hood first to see if I can “weather” the satin black to better match the rest of the exterior. Similar to how my scoops are now.

You have a good point there. This car is my primary driver most of the year so the engine bay gets pretty dirty.

Well, see, that’s a problem too. 1. I don’t plan on painting the car anytime within at least 5-10 years (maybe longer). And 2. When I WAS planning on painting it, the color changed almost every week! :rofl: so even if I was to paint it the color that I think I’d eventually paint the car, it’d...

That same thought actually crossed my mind last night as well. That blue would look really good against silver. I can understand the reasoning behind people suggesting white, easy to see, spot leaks, etc. I’m just not a big fan of white. But silver would offer those same benefits and have the...

Can you imagine people expressions when that whole scenario plays out and they walk up and it has a Hellcat engine in it instead of a small block? :D

That’s actually why I painted the engine when I swapped in the 360. I’d debated about just using as much of the ratty parts from the 318 as I could and leaving everything shabby and mismatched to continue the look of the rest of the car but at the advice of members on here, I decided to have the...

Long term plan is to install a 6.4 Hemi or a Hellcat, so that’ll DEFINITELY take people by surprise! :lol:

Sure would make it easier as far as keeping it “clean”. I washed my car once in the last year and couldn’t tell a difference!! The blue engine bay? Always looks filthy!

If I could afford that, I’d have them do all the body work and have them Patina paint the whole thing! :rofl:

Well, mainly because I’m not 100% sure how I’d do that. I guess I could experiment with the “faux-tina” paint process and see how it turns out. Could always paint over it if it doesn’t turn out.

Hey everyone, looking for some advice/opinions/ideas here. Now, I know most of you probably saw the title to this thread and instantly thought “BODY COLOR!!!” :mob: Lol. But, as y’all can tell by the pics of my car, that’s gonna be a bit of a problem. :lol: So anyway, I’m planning on pulling...

Well son of a gun! I was gonna post a pic of my car but you done beat me to it! The only thing I have to say to people who think I should paint it or think all old cars need to be all nice and shiny... they’re WAY more fun to drive ratty!! I’m not afraid to drive my car on any type of road or...

You can’t see the screws. They’re under the dash and under the gasket

You CAN install the dash after the glass but you’ll have to flip the “captured nut” clip things (where the dash screws go into) upside down, then put the screws in from under the dash.

Dang! Sucks to hear about the shop and cars! We were at my wife’s brothers place in Kalona when that storm came through. Wasn’t just too terribly bad there, lots of trees down, a few houses damaged, etc. Not near as bad as other areas of the state got it. We were only out of power for 5 or 6 hours

I could see that in the event of a normal restoration. I’m planning on changing my windshield and gasket this winter due to haze and leaks and will be leaving my current dash in the car. But I plan to modify/customize another dash frame that I have and install aftermarket gauges, the swap the...

I’ve heard of people using shorter screws and installing them from under the dash/up instead of from the top down. No personal experience with that but I’d love to hear from anyone who’s done it, as I’m thinking of reinstalling mine that way then as well.

Following.