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If my wife suggested I buy another car, I sure as heck wouldn’t argue with her! :lol:

Yeah I can get it up on jackstands after MoParty. Probably sometime in the first of the week

Probably can’t help ya much there since I’ve got the HDK Slammer which raises the engine 3/4 or 1 inch to gain more ground clearance to slam the car lower.

Ok. You should be fine then, the inner edge of the bolt that hold the cross support is only 3.5” from the frame rail.

How far is your starter opening from the inside of the frame rail?

K-member bolt from firewall should be the same. I’d imagine the difference from the firewall to the bellhousing flange is just a variation of engine placement with your swap.

Ok, so on my setup, I’ve got about 11” from the center of the rear k-member bolt to to the back side of the rear support bar. The support bar I have is curved toward the rear about 2”, so if you’d do a straight across support (which I could actually do on my car as well) you’d have about 9” from...

Well, I’m not sure how much help I’ll be tonight, due to have a small block with headers in a car that’s slammed 2”+, it’s real difficult to get any kind of decent measurements. That said, I’ve got about 1.25” from that bump in the firewall to my bellhousing mating flange. Then I’ve got about 5”...

The full suspension comes with upper control arms. I obviously can’t speak for Denny, but knowing how excellent he is at customer service, he might take your kit back on trade if it hasn’t been painted or coated yet. If it has been, you could probably sell the kit pretty easily here on FABO.

Yeah, I’ve got the full HDK suspension in my Duster, with the mustang 2 knuckles and the rack is in front of the k-member. Only potential issue is there’s a brace that runs through from the back side of both LCA’s, roughly in the same location as the factory drag link, but Denny may be able to...

I’d definitely see what you can figure out with some type of longer pitman and idler arms, then if that’s not a possibility, another (more expensive) option would be to use Denny’s full k-member/suspension instead of the torsion bar eliminator kit. That’d get rid of the steering linkage and put...

I'm guessing that when you say that there’s 4.5 of space between the starter flange and “linkage”, you mean the rear brace for the HDK kit and not the steering linkage?

You have a picture of the area?

In my opinion, if you’re planning on pulling the engine regardless, I wouldn’t bother installing the clutch and throw out bearing at this point

If you got that thing for less than $2k, you got a steal! Cleaned up and running, if it’s a rust free car, I’d say it’s MINIMUM a $5k car. Probably closer to $7k+

I’d definitely do the Holley sniper 2300 2bbl if I was to efi swap a slant

My thinking is, in order to make the plasti dip really look good, you’re going to want to get the panels smooth. And in order to do that, I’d strip a section at a time down to bare metal as much as possible, spray it in epoxy to seal it and give you a base, then do your filler work over that...

Maybe buy a harbor freight paint gun and a gallon of epoxy primer and just strip a section of the car at a time, wipe it down with a tack cloth and get epoxy primer on that section. I think that’s what I would do in your situation anyway.

Good luck picking a color! There’s no bad option from the three that you’re debating, they all look great! I’ll definitely be watching how the whole process goes; might just have to dip my daily driver for that price!

At the very minimum, the AX-15 will at least require the upper crossmember to be cut out and re done. Maybe some sheet metal work as well, depending on where it’s sitting in relation to how it would be with a factory engine.

I gotcha. Hadn’t realized you weren’t doing the AX-15 right away.

You got pics of the trans mount the shop made?

And I’ve literally never seen a constructive comment from you in my life…. :drama:

Sure thing. Shoot me a pm and I’ll help any way I can

@myduster360 did a 3.6 pentastar engine in a 72 Dart.

I’ll have to check to see where the bellhousing flange is located in relation to the firewall. I do know that in the position that my engine/trans is in, the back end of the shifter would probably interfere with the front edge of the upper trans crossmember. As far as my trans mount goes, I...

I used an external master/slave setup from a mid 90s s10. A previous owner had hacked out the tunnel with a torch for a 4 speed so I had to completely redo the tunnel and upper crossmember. yeah with 3.73s you’re gonna need to put some 35” boggers on that barracuda! :lol:

Yeah I’m running an AX-15 in my Duster, along with 2.76 gears and 25.6” tires. I had 3.23s in it originally and 1st gear was next to useless.

Wouldn’t that make it BJ Weld? :poke: