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hi. i am going to try to give you the answers to the questions YOU asked. first things first , your actual compression ratio right now is closer to 9.5:1 ( i get 9.4). you could safely use a 65cc head and get around 10.2:1. that is assuming everyone is wrong and that you have stock replacement...

comp sells +.050 and -.050 locks. they have it for 3/8 and 11/32 stems. for 10 degree retainers. inexpensive. this may be your best bet.

did you check for oil pressure on a gauge ? seems like you said there was pressure to the filter. if the oil pressure on the gauge is low, dont expect for oil to the rockers. so, how much have you got on a gauge while priming the pump or crancking the engine ?

i mean on a oil pressure gauge. you could confirm you have pressure when removing the oil pressure gauge and priming the pump, there should be oil coming off where the gauge was . again, be ready for a mess.

do you have oil pressure now ?

you havent changed the cam, right ?

your idea of doing this without rockers seems to make sense. be ready for an oil mess though.

when you prime the pump with a drill , you will feel the drill being harder to hold when the pump starts to build pressure and the drill will rotate slower. then turn the engine 5 degrees at a time, eventually you will have oil flowing at the rockers on one side. go on and it will flow on the other.

when you changed the pump and you did the oil change, did you fill the filter with oil ? the filter should be dry, otherwise it is blocking oil to go to the top. happened to me on a pontiac 400. wish it is only that.

if you grind a relief on your rockers, you wont have to buy new ones. new rockers would probably touch the retainers too. if you decide on grinding, try to remove the least material possible to make them clear the retainers. also, try to do it rounded so you dont create a stress riser. this...

la 360 at 60 over, stock stroke. 10.2 cr. comp-cams street solid-roller. edelbrock heads, ported. crane gold rockers. holley strip dominator intake, ported. 750 holley, with 850 throttle plates, professionaly done, which could be considered a ``950 hp `` carb. hedman street headers, 2 1/2...

current 360 around 500 hp

previous 340 in my hangten, 425 hp

we are talking the same thing. only a different method.

since your heads are off of the engine, here is a quick test in order to find out if you have enough piston to head clearance. install the head with a few bolts WITHOUT a head gasket. turn the engine BY HAND, it should turn freely. you dont even need to use the rockers for this test. if it hits...

your overheating problem is probably caused by tight piston to wall clearances. it will improve as you put more miles on it. another thing : check your piston to head clearances . the piston shouldnt have touched the head anywhere, especially in the chamber . i believe it may be contributi ng...

if you dont want to centerline the cam, install it dot to dot and use it that way. checking lifter height at tdc is not precise enough to set a cam. your intake lifter being higher than the exhaust only means your cam is advanced, but you dont know how much. your cam requires 104 degrees intake...

if those pistons are slightly out of the deck at tdc, they are not 72-73 pistons. they look more like a cast piston for a 68-71 to me. compare them to a silvolite 1267, you will see what i mean. even enginetec sell a similar piston. they could even be sealed power 428 pistons.

also, check the piston that hit the head for alignment with the others. it might be the picture, but it seems to be twisted .

the 340-edelbrock heads are machined in the chambers to avoid piston to head contact. edelbrock-360 heads are not machined there. i dont think chinese heads are relieved either. you must make sure you have the correct heads. personnaly, i would measure piston to head clearance. i am sure someone...

from examining the pistons, the valves didnt hit the pistons. if such was the case, it would have been on the other side of the piston, towards the inside of the engine. so, if i am right, the piston hit the head somewhere else in the chamber. have your heads inspected by a pro. also, bring...

for what i remember, the j series spark-plugs from champion are for big-blocks.

the only difference between the champions c series plug and the n series , is the socket size required to install them. so, yes you could use a rc9yc plug instead of a rn9yc. i have used the champion rn9yc plugs in my 340`s since the 1980`s. i even still used them in my 360`s with cast iron...

use rn9yc champions. that would be correct for a 68-71 340 application. if you use aluminum heads, edelbrock recommends rn12yc.

i could be wrong here, but look at reply #1 and the piston is so close to the deck. seems to be farther on reply #27 when the piston should be on tdc. could it be we have all been goofed by an incorrect crank damper ? something to think about.

i think that if you want to go from 460 hp to 500 in a single step without touching the short-block, you need to up-grade to a street-roller. have a look at the xr series of comp cams. lifters are a pita to install though. you would need to grind the block for lifter installation. also, a switch...

thanks for the options, guys. i will probably end up removing 1 inch off the intake and use a 2 inch tall filter instead of 3 inches right now. that way, it should clear the hood. before touching anything, i will measure clearance without a filter and go from there. i would like to keep the car...

i probably could. it seems to me like removing a 2 in. spacer. i just hope it wouldnt hurt horsepower too much.

for a small-block mopar, which intakes will fit rectangle-port indy heads ? mine are marked indy w-2 , but they are a rectangle port head. i already own an indy-made intake but it is so tall that i might need to cut the hood for everything to fit, which i would try to avoid . would a w-2 or...

you should remove 10.3ccs with a .050 in. cut if you dont touch the chambers, assuming a 4 in. bore in the chamber.