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AX-15; * 3.83-2.33-1.44-1.00-.79od splits of; .61-.620-.690-.79 NV/Dak; 3.49-2.14-1.38-1.00-.73od splits of; .61-.645-.725-.73 The Dak is pretty tall for your Dart, the belly may get to dragging on the ground. I like the AX and if I was younger, I would put one behind a peppy hi-compression 318

Somewhere on FABO, I posted that the reverse switches always leak, even the new ones right thru the swedging and around the spades. The only cure I have found is to take the switch out, clean it thoroughly outside and in, especially behind the ball, and blowing it out, multiple times. Then I use...

As to sticking Did you suck it together at install with the bolts? If yes then the M/S pilot is probably jamming in the back of the crank. If you painted the BH in the mating area there, well that could do it too. Another thing that can happen; If you hang the trans on the clutch disc during...

As long as you don't install synthetic, you should be fine. I even ran auto-trans fluid for many years; Dextron II ATF, not FORD type..

If the struts popped out once, they will do it again until you replace the brass. The brass is going down too far on the cones. The one that popped out is not the one that needs replacing, rather, the adjacent one. When reusing old brass; Put your highest sitting brass on the input gear as the...

It's probably NOT the Reverse Idler gear sticking, nor the Slider, but instead is the internal shifter. Try shifting it without the cover. I bet it shifts just fine. If not, remove the detent system off the backend and try again. It should flick in an out like magic. Here's the deal, There are...

If you put the same cover back on the box, this should not be a problem.

Changing a B/E body trans to an A-body involves changing the tail, the Mainshaft, and usually the rear bearing. Additionally, the B-body front retainer will not fit into the standard A-body BH. This is an easy fix by using the A/F-body overdrive BH and front retainer. Some guys have machined the...

I am a streeter. but by it's trapspeed, my 367 is making 430 hp. I am very happy with the CF diaphragm PP, the Stock Flywheel, and a factory 340 organic disc. However; the discs barely make it thru one, or mayb, two summers with my driving style. The discs usually fail by 1) cracking at the...

Yes the GV comes with a stand-alone module that has two functions, and an on/off switch. 1) when you select od by the switch, the ecu modulates the apply-signal, to gently engage the overdrive clutch. and 2) it prevents od from being engaged in reverse, which just about instantly breaks the...

Some people, not pointing the finger at Kern Dog above; say that the .78od ratio of the GVod is "not that Great" or something to that effect.. Well, by the numbers, and compared to some other options, that is true. But For a street-driven car, there is a clever way around that, which I have...

If you look closely, I quoted

That's the first thing I noticed too. That beast maybe not even be off an A-body at all.,

If I understand you right, yur saying that with the cups off, the joint will not slip between the cup-holder saddles of the yoke; is that right? Made in China? Those guys just don't care; for them, it's all about money. Just make sure the two saddles are parallel to eachother and that an...

Ask me anything about installing or running the GVod. I installed mine in 2004. I would NOT say that is the greatest thing since sliced bread, but with a cammed-up SBM, it's close. xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Since I am a streeter, if I had to do it again; I would just put a smaller...

lol

Just b-a-s-h it! But your Z-bar should be installed at 90* to the car centerline from top view, and parallel to the ground from the rear. Then the downrod from the pedal should go straight thru the center of the oval hole in the firewall, to meet the lever welded to the Z-bar. Finally, the...

Speaking about many gears; Earlier I ran the A833od with a GearVender behind it and splitting gears, making 7 progressive gears. For a while, I ran it with 4.88s, which, in double over, ran like 2.70s .. But I soon settled on 4.30s, for 65= 1930 rpm. In the end the 13.28 parade gear was too...

Depending on your torque output, and specific build; the A/F body A833od unit, a 3+1, is a great option. What I mean is this; the ratios spreads are a little wide, and better suited to engines with a broad flat torque curve. Like low-compression factory engines. As you put more and more cam...

Yeah, Ima thinking technique. Here's something you can try . drive the car in first gear, up to a speed that makes 2500 rpm on the tach , look at the speedometer and make a mental note of the speed. I'm just guessing but say it 20 mph. Now, you will forever know that for zero speed difference...

Ok so with the car moving. I assume you know how synchronizers work, but humor me. The two FOUR working parts of the Synchronizers are; the Brass rings the Brake cones the three struts, and the Energizer springs. If any of those parts fail to do their jobs, You have problems, and a couple of...

Hang on boys we , or maybe just me, needs more information. To whit; You said; "So I parked my 68 Barracuda last fall but before I did, I was experiencing difficulty getting the transmission to shift back to first gear from 2nd gear." So I ask; 1) is this with the car moving? Now it's a...

IDK what size clutch your 1971 Demon with a 198/A230 has, but since the 198 is the smallest slanty available in '71, I'd guess it has the smallest clutch; But I'm just guessing, lol

As to the CFII, I agree, too harsh for my 367 street-combo. I pulled it out in favor of the 100% factory 340 disc. And yes, Like Inertia in post 28, I installed washers, under the CFII PP. Now it's a dump it and go deal at low rpm, and the flyweights clamp solid some where north of 3000 rpm...

I did this mod to the front only of an aluminum case that I used to use before I bought one of Jamie's HD alloy cases which comes set-up for a light press-fit. My 367 slammed that thing for about 3 >4 years mercilessly and when I retired it, I still had to pound the cluster-pin out.

I Never liked 'em. They force my wrist into an awkward twist. and, IMO, they are out of scale too-big for an A-body. I once drilled and tapped a Hurst T-handle on the big end, and put the Line-Loc on the top. I thought it was a good idea but it turned out not to be, again because of the twist...

It's aluminum. You just weld it up and make it anything you need. If you don't have the appropriate "locknut", you will need some HD loc-tite, else you have no way of securing the orientation. But worse is that if it moves on the 2-3 shift, your knuckles will mash the dash. IMO, 1) those look...

I guess I'll put the beer away then........ lol.

The ones in the pic with the shoes in it actually look right to me. You may not have the right shifter plate, there are several to choose from and only one is correct for an A-body. Brewers has the pics. If you like, since yur only an hour and change from me, you can come down and see how your...

I used to put the highest-sitting brass on Second, cuz I always wore that one out first, lol. First gear gets the lowest-sitting cuz the rpm differential is only whatever your idle-speed is, say 750 rpm, and I don't like first gear to work too good, as it just makes engaging it more difficult...