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Best to detail your engine and car whenever asking an engine question. I had to scroll down to post #46 to learn. Easiest is the 8-pin GM HEI module (1985-95) with their coil and cable which connects the two. Many posts and TrailBeast here use to sell as a kit for those who don't go to...

Often true that those GM-style coil-in-cap distributors are too wide, so interfere with the firewall. Also pricey. GM changed to an external coil in 1985, using their "small cap" distributor, even though their small-block had room for a coil-in-cap.

If picking parts, you also grab the GM coil and the cable which connects the 8-pin module to the coil, so no custom-wiring for that. The coil has a white wire for tach signal. Also clip the pickup wire and cable. The 8-pin module is inside the "small-cap" distributor. The pickup connector is...

Easiest and cheapest is the Ningbo "ready to run" distributor on ebay. I put one on my 1965 Dart 273 ($45) with the e-core coil ($20) (both from seller Steve White Performance). Not avail for slant-six. I also found a spare module ($15 ebay), which I think is used in some Japanese cars...

You can google my past posts with photos. Parallel-reversed diodes with a forward drop ~0.5 V (at ~100 A). I measured ~0.75 V drop in the ammeter circuit at ~50 A output. The diodes I used are rated ~200 A and need a heat sink (can be the copper wires). Don't try it unless you understand...

Reason for the "MAD Bypass", though that disables the dash ammeter. Some owners instead install a dash voltmeter. I added a shunt diode to my 3 1960's Mopars so that increasing currents begin flowing direct from alternator to BAT+. The ammeter is still active, but doesn't peg. My cars have...

The proper approach would be to trouble-shoot to find what is wrong, rather than kludge a fix. I have a relay for underhood IGN power in my 3 1960's Mopars, indeed installed a fuse/relay box for a 1990's Jeep so relays for many things like headlamps, starter, horn, ... I removed the OE relays...

Shouldn't be. The only time I recall seeing coil- to gnd switched (in our cars) is for safety things like the NSS in the starter circuit. Relays in cars since ~1990 are wired different. One side of the coil is usually hot (12 V, always or from IGN) and the coil low-side is switched to gnd by...

Need more detail. At what terminal do you measure 12 V with key off? If the voltage drop from coil+ to coil- (85 to 86 or vice-versa) is zero, the relay should be OFF, regardless of what voltages are applied at the output terminal (usually 87 but could be 30). Often a bad ground can cause...

Usually "the relay thing" means adding a 30 A relay to supply IGN power when the key is in RUN position. Check that when the key is in OFF that you don't measure 12 V at coil+ of the relay. If you do, find where it is coming from. You should have wired so the key's IGN output runs only to...

I looked it up, and as-suspected Rust Mort is just Phosphoric Acid, which converts rust into a hard black substance (iron phosphate?). https://semproducts.com/public/content/msds/69501,69508%20Rust%20MortUSA.pdf You can buy it cheaper and locally as "Concrete Etch and Metal Prep" at Home Depot...

Probably breaks your heart to see how valued station wagons are today. Our family had a 1963 Valiant wagon when I was young. Engine failed after mom kept driving it with the oil lamp lit on a trip. I had checked the oil level was fine, so perhaps the pickup screen had become gunked.

The old Splitfire ads said they first ran an engine on the dyno with copper plugs, then again with Splitfire and measured ~20% more max power (or such). They didn't relate that the engine was cold in the first run and warmed-up in the second. When ads state, "up to 20% more", that means, "no...

RRR, If using the GM e-core coil like me, the ones I got at the junkyard have a bracket which varies a bit depending on engine. GM mounted it on the intake manifold. Below is how I mounted on the right inner fender of my 1964 Valiant slant-six. Can't quite make out the coil's bracket, but I...

If you mean the positive and negative of the 2 pickup wires, what I did was to shine a clamp-on timing lamp at the distributor reluctor and verify the teeth aligned with the pickup when the lamp flashed. Easiest to spin the distributor rotor off-engine by hand. Since the cap is off for this...

If an HEI module, you shouldn't need the ballast resistor, and better with an e-core coil. Do they suggest that? If upgrading an earlier engine with points ignition, why would anyone change to the Mopar ECU wiring, unless using the actual Mopar ECU? That would be clumsy wiring to the 5-pin...

Might want to search for my post "Modernized Wiring ..." maybe 10 yrs ago. Mostly underhood rewiring where I installed a fuse/relay box from a 1990's Jeep, in my 1964 & 65 A's and 1965 C. Under-dash, I added a relay for ACC to take that current load off the key switch and relays for the lift...

Instruction sheet for Ignitor II: http://www.pertronix.com.au/assets/pdf/Pertronix_Ignitor_2_Installation_Instructions.pdf It has dwell control (GM's HEI) and can use a low-resistance coil (down to 0.6 ohm), such as their Flame-Thrower II. No ballast or "ballasted coil" (~3.5 ohm internal...

Agreed. Pertronix versions vary. I understand that the original Ignitor is a simple transistor switch, with no dwell control, so still requires a ballast resistor. It is similar to the 1970's Mopar ignition, though easier wiring than retrofitting that to a pre-1972 car if you use a ballasted...

White fuseholder is likely aftermarket, at least never seen in factory wiring. I use the modern type that holds a blade-type fuse. The e-brake switch was in later cars with a dash "Brake" lamp. If it shorts to ground, or another brake sensor does like the pressure-imbalance switch (dual brake...

The Airtex Pump E8012S linked works for carburetors (8 psig max) and isn't pricey. Don't rely on a similar-looking EFI pump since those are positive displacement so will output >100 psig (or stall) without an outlet pressure regulator (all EFI systems have). That high pressure would force the...

Besides my two clamp-ons (Craftsman and Actron), I have an old in-line pickup one like post 14, I picked up at a thrift store for $2. Figured might help for something, like hacker projects or give to a kid struggling with an old car with no tools. Not my kids, they can't even change a tire...

I see talk of different batteries needing different charging controls, but no explanation. Add that people are beginning to use lighter Li 12 VDC batteries, the only hindrance being price (>$600). There are various Li types. When I replaced the lead-acid batteries in my daughter's razor...

This old thread popped up. I recall there are much newer ones about cluster voltage limiters. I suggest a generic 12 to 5 VDC adjustable one, as I've used ($10, Amazon). They come in a small plastic case with ears to securely mount. I recall you can adjust up to ~7 VDC. I adjusted the output...

I bought an Actron CP7529 on Amazon about 10 years ago for $5. Has rpm and advance. My old Craftsman clamp-on pickup lamp still works, but it doesn't have advance. Even for idle, it doesn't work well since I want to set more than the 10 deg on the car's timing tab, unless I installed degree...

I bought these 5/8" bulb sockets on ebay for my 1965 Dart. I had dropped one socket in the dash and couldn't find it and in another socket a copper contact fell out when removing the bulb and couldn't find it. Believe me I spent 30 min searching for both (been there?). I couldn't get these...

Yes, CA does a visual inspection under the hood and smoke-test the intake for leaks in the evaporative system. That is all they do on newish vehicles (say 2000+), other than poll the engine controller for codes. I think older still get a dyno test with tailpipe probe, at special STAR stations...

A good idea. I put a relay/fuse box from a 1990's Jeep in all my old Mopars (long black box in my avatar). I have a relay for IGN, Horn, Starter, Lo Beam, Hi Beam, EFI pump, ... Under the dash, I have a relay for ACC to take that current load off the key switch.

Pertronix makes several products for Mopars. The OP is installing a Pertronix Ignitor (pickup and coil driver) inside an OEM 1966 points distributor. Their original Ignitor (OP's?) still requires a ballast resistor. Sometimes such ballast is built into a new coil (apparently OP's), otherwise...

Are you sure the 2 flasher terminals are reversed? I found that the schematic in my 1965 Dart Shop Manual is misleading, depicting like you are looking at the wire side of the connector with round flasher in background, but actually it is for looking into the end of the connector (unplugged...