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Pretty sure you will need to change the column (or at least the shaft). The PS box is longer than the manual box, so there is a difference in column length. When going from PS to manual steering you can just add an extension to the PS steering shaft. I don't know if there is an aftermarket kit...

https://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/threads/1973-1976-a-body-center-link.533484/#post-1974176956

I missed it, also. It was caught by the last alignment guy. By the way, he caught it in about 5 minutes.

Just a stupit observation. When I first built my 66 Valiant, with all new front end and brake parts, I took it to be aligned. When driving it pulled to the right. At about 90 mph, it had a bad shimmy. Took it back to the alignment shop and had them redo it. same problem. Took it to a different...

I don't need inspiration, I need to a few years younger, and a few dollars richer. I need to do some maintainence, on my 66 Valiant race car Some suspension/steering/ brake work on my street 64 Valiant Rebuild the turbo motor, and build a trans for my street/strip 65 Valiant I Have 5 engines on...

I have a 64 Valiant, that I had planned on building ( not sure if it will happen) I have a 66 Cuda glass tilt nose (wheel cutouts up to the bumper, ala altered WB) Glass doors, and bumpers, lexan for the windows, 8 point roll bar kit, Rear springs moved inboard. Was thinking of using a...

What are you going to do about front brakes? The slant six probably has 9 inch brakes. The V-8 K-member (if complete) could very well have 10 inch brakes. The spindles are different, but can be swapped. That would be an improvement. Even if going to disc brakes, most setups require using the 10...

Just a FYI. repair part available new. I have never used one, so have no personal knowledge. 1973 Plymouth Valiant Parts | MA688017B | 1967-76 Mopar A-Body Torsion Bar Crossmember | Classic Industries

yes

Depends on the year. All my "A" bodies are 64-66, and have a solid shaft. Forget what year they went to the 2 piece shaft, but you are right about that.

Factory pot joint has provision for in and out movement, U-joint does not

Actually, it works just fine. I have done it on my 7 1/4 rears so I can mount slicks. But like I said not the best idea.

Like they say, You have three choices, pick any two. Easiest/cheapest, but not the best. Redrill the drums and flanges/hubs.

Are you sure you don't mean strut rod bushings? They go on the rod that goes from the lower control arm, to the cross member, and are on the cross member end.

Pretty sure I have a new one on the shelf. I'll check when I get to the shop. It would be for the 1973 up.

Those are the old "Traction Masters" we used back in the 1960's/70's

Any one can make good quality parts, but there will always be some defects during a production run. This is where quality control comes in. Years ago, I worked in a manufacturing plant. The items we made came out of the machine at the rate of 300 per minute. They were inspected by automatic...

I am not trashing them, or recommending them, as I have no first hand knowledge of their part quality. I just wanted to clear up any misconecptions, as to their origin.

They are not made in Nrth America. They are made in Taiwan. That info is from Mark at XRF.

I would be carefull of the Raybestos brand. I bought a Raybestos brand Front wheel bearing assy for a Buick, from Rockauto. I thought I would be getting the best quality. Came in a Raybestos box that said made in China. Same paperwork in the box, that is in the Advance "store brand" box. I...