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You are lucky. I have a nice fuel gauge. I tested it and it is fine. If interested send me a message.

I MIGHT have one. I have a 84 D-100, and 88 D-150. If I remember correctly, they use the same gauges. I think I have some spare gauges from when I added gauges to my D-100 that had idiot lights. If you don't find anything, and I don't respond by tomorrow evening, send me a PM.

As stated starting fluid can do damage. Have you ever heard how the engine knocks/bangs/rattles? That is like running 87 octane in a 12-1 engine at 1500 rpm and 50 degrees advance floor boarded. That said, there is no reason it can't be used in moderation. Just a little squirt, crank, start...

That is great for those doing a FI retrofit, but what about us that just need a "stock" type replacement. I have two of these trucks, and both are carbed. Both trucks have cracks in the tank near the top (can't fill). I would be fine paying $300+ for the tank, but another $300+ for a fuel pump...

NO, I have not heard of that.

Beg to differ. Just an example Look in the mopar factory service manual (1972) section 25, pg 15 and 16, figure 4, under crankcase emissions. Hose goes to air cleaner. Only the very early PCV systems had a breather open to air. The 1967 service manual shows the "Open to air " breather system for...

OEM has been doing it like that since about 1963

That is one of the things I am going to try. Also see if there is a difference in the IVR output. Just need to get time. I trying to get my racecar ready for a race at the end of the month.

Just a FYI. In case anyone doesn't know about it. If making your own lines, forget steel or copper. Use the copper/nickel lines. So much easier to work with, will never rust, and will hold the required pressure (even for brakes). Just an example 1/4" (.25" O.D.) Copper Nickel brake line - Tubing...

I got one of the cheaper ones, off e-bay. I just got it installed, and have some issues. I can't say if it is the unit or the vehicle. This is a pickup with a 30 gal tank. What I did was measure what the tank held from empty. Held 32 gal from where no fuel would come out the line at the input...

Has any one used either a meter match or other brand device on a mopar with the instrument voltage regulator? how did you wire it, and how did it work? I have a couple of Dodge trucks that needed new senders. The replacement senders are linear resistance, where the factory senders are non...

or BOOSTED I have a slant six I started building some years ago, that keeps getting put on the back burner. Rajay turbo, and Impco propane system. Supposed to go in a altered wheelbase 64 Valiant. At my age and being down on the project list, I don't know if it will ever get done. I'm the worlds...

OK, was just wondering

Oldiron440 Why do you disagree with my post?

Years ago I made a poor mans torker out of one of those. Milled at flat area, where the carb went, and used "devcon" plastic steel, to epoxy a open 4 bbl 2 inch spacer. Then opened up the manifold to match the spacer. It worked well with a Holley 4 bbl from a 440, on my wifes 74 Dart 318.

Any street driven engine will benefit from vacuum advance. Usually ported is best. However the further he engine is from stock, the more you will have to work with the centrifical and vacuum advance curves.

1966 PLYMOUTH VALIANT 3.7L 225cid L6 Fuel Tank | RockAuto

Search Ford COAZ-9202-B They show up several places.