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Totally agree. In my area, you can't believe how many vehicles need adjusting. I don't have a convenient place to do a aiming against a wall. I had called around (a few years ago), and not a single shop (that I could find) in my county had proper aiming equipment. I found a "hoppy" aimer at a...

I'm an older driver. As a driver I like "good" LED headlights. As the "other car on the road" I hate LED's.

There is so much junk LED lighting out there, be careful. Listen to this member @slantsixdan

You're correct.

As they say. "a vehicle is worth exactly what someone is willing to pay".

It is pretty nice, but for that price it should be perfect. Hell it doesn't even have a radio. :)

Not all of us. I recommended staying with the slant six, mainly based on the fact that he is still a teenager, with a limited budget, and very limited experience working on cars. He can gain experience, working with the slant, get the car running, and have some fun with it. Then if he wants...

The way I did it. https://earlycuda.org/techdocs/ConvertFrontUJoint.pdf

I don't remember the last year of the 273. The only 727 that might work would be a small block 727, and if the 273 was 1968 or newer (crank pilot/converter issue).

It depends on the year of the V-8 and the year of the trans. The 904 converter pilot got larger in 1968. So, a 68 or newer 904 will not fit the crank of a 1967 or older V-8 (same for the slant six)

The 65 trans has a flange that bolts onto the output shaft, just like the 64 trans. However the bearing and seal at the end of the tailshaft housing on the 65 trans is different then the 60-64 parts. The part number that is listed in the screen shot (2464 482) is correct for the 1965 trans...

That screen shot from Fatsco in not correct. 1965 TF904 (at least in "A" bodies) did not have a slip in yoke, it still used the flange. Just a FYI: 64 and 65 used different extension housing rear seals. However the oem part number (2464 482) referenced is correct for 1965. The seal part number...

Good deal. Parts are worth more than the price you paid. But I would look it over real close for serious rust, and if none, don't part it out. get it repaired/restored.

They are fine for a slant six, or a mild V-8, and are cheap when found, as the Ford guys remove them for 9 inch units. They come in quite a few different widths, and if the right one is found just about a drop in for a Mopar "A" body.

I'm using a Ford 8 inch from a 71 Comet, in my 64 Valiant. Except for U-joint it is a "bolt in" deal. and gives large bolt pattern.

What, no "POSI" :) :)

I know of a member on slant six dot org that did the 200r4 in a 68 Dart with a slant six. Street driver/drag car that gets close to mid 20's MPG, and runs high 12's in the 1/4 mile. This car is not just a "sunday" driver. It is a "long haul" driver.

Just keep in mind no matter which trans is used, the drive shaft will need to be modified (B&T to slip spline) and there will most likely be some shifter/linkage issues. None of this is a big deal.

Without cleaning off some rust, I measure the hub diameter at 2.310 on both the 9 inch and 10 inch hubs. 13 inch and 14 inch wheels measure 2 310-2.320 center hole. These are all small bolt pattern.

True. I was also under the impession all SBP wheels had the same dia hub hole.

That is on the rear, but not "A" bodies. "A" bodies never used the tapered rear axles. 63 was the first year of the "A" body Darts. 60-62 "A" body Dodge was the Lancer.

Not positive on the 65 year, but the 66 and up had either 9 inch or 10 in brakes available. Both are small bolt pattern, but the spindles, hubs, bearings and drums are different. As far as I recall the center hub is the same size, but I could be wrong. It might be slightly different. The 10...

All those part numbers cross over to National and Timken number 8516N

I don't think dual point was in 1964. It was used on the high output 273, which didn't come out until 1965.

No pictures, yet. Here are some measurements. Top of cap to top of tank 1 1/8 inch top of tank to center of top pass side mounting bolt hole 4 1/4 inches Stock 4 blade fan blade to core 3/8 inch fan spacer 7/8 inch There is room at the bottom tank to the bottom of the radiator support to allow...

How long ago did you buy the radiators? Mine was, I think, about a year ago. It could be possible they made corrections based on feedback. I'll see if I can get info from the car, today. Damm, are you up early, or late?

I'm tech challenged and have trouble doing pictures. I'll see if I can get a friend to help me. The holes lined up with the radiator support perfectly. Once I got the hoses off the old radiator, the whole job took less than a half hour.

Last year I put a Champion radiator in my 64 Valiant with a 170 slant. The biggest problem I had was getting the hoses off the stock radiator. New Champ radiator fit perfect. Champion CC63DT

64 and 65 are the only 2 years for the cable shifted small block 904. However there are differences. The only difference that matters as far as fitment is the valve body. 64 and 65 have different valve bodies, as the 64 was push button shifted, and 65 was either column shifted or floor shifted...

While you are there, download the service manual, also. I have down loaded most of the manuals over there. That way I can check other years, to see if a part will fit my car.