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Oct,17, 73 ?

Cast crank slant six uses a different block, rods and crank than the forged crank slants. The rod and main journal are narrower. If using the 2.2 pistons make sure they are compatible with whatever rod you use. Not only on the pin location/rod length, but on whether the pistons are for floating...

All factory slant six pistons will be the same CR. There are some different aftermarket piston configurations within the "stock" description. Some have a slightly lower compression distance. There are also aftermarket "export" low compression pistons. Be careful you don't get these. For what you...

Not sure of the year of the change, but the early ones the seal is R&R from the back. Cover must be removed to change the seal. The later covers don't have to be removed to R&R the seal, it is done from the front.

If I recall correctly, the 66 Has a timing tab bolted to the lower driver side cover bolt. I don't remember if the 70 is bolted or welded. he timing marks on the damper correspond to the tab. The 66 bolt on tab can be put on the later cover and just disregard any other tabs on the cover...

The 65 trans is a cable shift trans, but not for push button (for column or floor shift). However the 65 trans can be used with the PB shifter, by either installing a 60-64 Valve body, or Swapping the 1964 manual shift valve and rooster comb into the 65 Valve body. Also need to use the PB...

Looks like your memory is better then mine. I forgot about that "369" pan.

Not knocking you. In the hobby there are a lot of things to remember. Some you don't use for years. I am more familiar with the slant six, then with V-8's, and there are things I still pick up on, that I didn't realize. PS: at my age my memory gets fuzzy, also.

The issue with the pan is not the center link. It is the front part of the sump. The later pan hits the K member. @briansb71 If you want to keep the PB shifter, send me a message and I'll give you my phone number

Many filter makers started making their filters smaller to save money. Some only hold about 3/4 of a qt. Just like you used to get a pack of hotdogs that were 16 oz. Now they are 14 oz.

That is a 1 qt filter.

Something is wrong. Should read full on the stick, with 4 qts in the oil pan and 1 qt in the filter = 5 qts total. You might have the wrong dipstick. By running 2 qts over full you could have excessive oil consumption, and aerated oil. Then you wind up showing low on the stick (but not really)...

Don't assume. It is a common problem for the PCV on a slant to be plugged up. Don't check just the valve, check the complete system. A lot of times the passage in the carb is plugged up. I should have asked a long time ago. Have you hooked up an oil pressure gauge to see what the pressure really is?

Why did you over fill the engine? Should only take 5 qts with filter (unless truck). You are two qts over full.

Did you replace the "O" ring for the oil pump cover? Also make sure the PCV is hooked up and working properly.

Hey, removing unneeded weight is always good.

I have made a couple of my own, using some metal from the scrap bin or hardware store for brackets, and the cable from a bicycle shop or motorcycle shop (Used for brakes, clutch, or shift).

It is possible I am wrong. Don't have a lot of experience with trucks. My 64 D-100 has a bell housing that would only fit the slant six. Trans is a A-833OD. I have a flywheel and clutch on hand, that is used with the NP435, and it requires a larger bell housing then the one on my 64 D-100. The...

That would work for the heater hoses if the thread is 3/8 NPT. For the nipple that goes on the underneath to the water pump I use a plumbing pipe nipple and cut the threads off one end.

That bell housing was used with the NP435 (I think that is the number) trans. That is the 4 speed that has the shifter go right into the top of the trans, with a "granny" 1st gear. But I don't believe it has a dual engine bolt pattern. I have that flywheel and clutch on hand, but no bell...

Clutch possibly. Bellhousing no, flywheel no. The bolt pattern on the bell to engine is different, and as stated the bolt holes in the flywheel are different. Also the center hole in the flywheel got larger between 67 and 68, on both the small block and slant six. Also the bell, flywheel and...

He also had a better oil pump to block gasket. but I don't see any listed-on E-bay now.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/335077739607

Either pump will work. However there have been some problems with gaskets. Look at this thread for info about the gasket. https://www.slantsix.org/forum/viewtopic.php?f=19&t=67072&hilit=oil+pump+gasket

I bought a "supposedly" good used engine (V-8) for my truck (bad rod knock). Set it on the ground, put oil & filter in it. Installed oil pressure gauge, pulled distributer and installed a pump drive shaft, oil pressure at about 35 lbs. Pulled plugs, rigged up starter, cranked engine over. oil...

Agreed. I don't remember reading about that. But my memory isn't what it used to be.

You can swap the 71 225 engine into the 63 car easily. You need to get a crankshaft adapter bushing (from @slant six on this site, and inexpensive). Need a 68/later flexplate. Use the engine bracket/mounts, carb/linkage from the 63. Also need to swap the oil pan, and pickup. Ignition depends on...

1920 carbs have an issue of the PCV port in the base of the carb getting plugged up. Check and see if you have vacuum at the valve. If not, then check the port on the carb. If no vacuum, remove the carb and clean the port from the outside, and from the carb base (1/4 inch drill bit by hand)...

Hard to find a good machine shop, any more. Had several in my area, years ago. Most have closed up, one only does Jeep engine rebuilds, and one that is still open has a long wait list.

You do realize that you need to take the alternator apart to "press" the new pully on.