Search results for query: *

X3 do it while it is empty, or you may never do it!

if there is a way these guys would know: http://www.southernpolyurethanes.com/contact%20us.htm

I think I remember seeing a thread that mentioned it was a wax? here it is: http://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/showthread.php?t=260942

if you dont want to spend the $ for a stud gun weld a nut in the crease and pull with a regular slide hammer. If you are doing more body work , the harbor freight stud gin does a good job, and I also use the tip to heat shrink metal...

good scuff= nothing is shiny

learn something everyday: http://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/showthread.php?t=54166 The thread I linked on installation (post 2)should still be relevant, unless you have one of the ford wings, i guess they are a little narrower.

like this: but to install a go wing check out this thread :) http://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/showthread.php?t=62477

Good point, when I had a garage with these appliances in them I extinguished the flame, no hot water today hunny!

ideally yes, but you increase potential for dust in your paint. at a friends house I used a wet swamp cooler filter over the garage window and put a fan on a ladder outside to blow in fresh air but doing it with just the man door open has been fine as long as the plastic is secured well.

I do this regularly. I buy thin plastic from home depot, comes in a box. it is 12ftx200 roll, does the whole garage several times. My process: 1. Take out unnecessary items 2. Use compressed air to blow off everything including the garage door 3. Sweep and blow again 4. wet the floor and...

I just got a qt of Omni MTK single stage...maybe its old stock? It is Mango Tango /Toxic Orange code: PVG used 08 up Chrysler products in the sun it shifts between bright orange and a copper color The color on my engine is another Chrysler color code: DR (Viper ZDR) Graphite Grey Pearl Metallic

My color also has a good bit of that russet pearl and also a color shifting agent, retails over $1000/gallon just for the base. I found a guy in NY that sells ppg base coats online at a significant discount.

Good advice. I am a hobbist, though I did work at a restoration shop for a couple years after high school, I use PPG's deltron 2000, it is a good paint- and pretty expensive. one of PPG's lower lines and single stage is omni. I used that to paint my engine and transmission and it looks great...

I buy all my paint and primer online. For primer products and urethane reducers I use http://www.southernpolyurethanes.com/ Check out my build thread in the signature below(or their site) for some of the uses. Their epoxy kicks ***, be sure you neutralize that acid with plenty or water prior...

I dunno, 2 hours per contact point that needs modification per piece? Cowl, rocker, rad support. More if there is not enough material and you have to re-fiberglass the area. I hope he plans to give you a good chunk of your money back.

http://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/showthread.php?t=254164 this guy near me has some for sale (wrong coast for you) but he does travel moving cars. obviously I haven't put them on a car to check alignment, but they looked to be pulled and coated well.

i have seen fiberglass hoods that fit the bill: http://www.aarqualityfiberglass.com/products/barracuda-flat-hood-1967-68-lift

good point! Or take advantage of the respray window, most will let you spray the primer over within a day. Spray reduced epoxy one day, if it is nice and smooth, next day spray your 2k.

yup! Most epoxy primer will allow you to reduce them a little so it lays out thinner, and acts like a sealer, which is probably all you need. -cc

I always liked the white/cream colored race cars that have an accent color like the Color me Gone Car

So difficult to tell on a computer with these pearl/metallic paints, might be the Go Mango(tangerine) from the 2006 charger daytona, mopar paint code VE BTW, these orange pearl/metallic colors have a color shift base that is a main ingredient, and it is very expensive.

I wonder what chip foose does, he is mr. 2-3 tone

I would use both! I love when stripes/graphics//paint schemes roll into interior or underhood, it looks very thought out.

Good work. To the OP- this method looks promising. When I was considering this same modification, I decided it might look cleaner if I cut the hole completely to size, and took a slice of rectangular tubing and cut off the bottom, or bend up a piece of flat stock (1/2 of an inch?) and welded...

you should be fine the pinch weld and perimeter is where all the strength is

I have pondered this same procedure for my hub covers. in 99% of painting application I prefer to mask well and spray. On these I am not sure a crisp masked off line is the look you want, and instead I would consider using a pin-striping brush. It takes a little practice to get smooth...

I too worked at a shop a little over 10 years ago when 1500 and 2000 were "fine grits." I am sure the tried and true will work, but I was researching dampsanding to get with the times and bookmarked this site...

exactly, when i am putting an aftermarket front end on a toyota carolla, scuff and shoot! but no way would I leave it on my cuda.

thank you for sharing Ross, I just read the whole thread, some very cool work.

hard to see with such a small pic, but it looks like it only has wheel flares-