Search results for query: *

They have pre-made boxes for batteries, although it's kind of pricey http://www.rpmoutlet.com/musv6batt.htm And you'd need a pretty stinkin' big switch if your going to put it in line with the main battery cable if that's what you mean. But you could run wires from stuff like the fuel pump...

Nice, sounds like you had a fun afternoon

I'm so confused :( Because the 274 cam has an intake centerline of 106 and it sounds like your suggesting a cam with a later centerline would offer more compression. But couldn't I just advance the XE274 cam a few degrees and have the same compression as the 268H? They both have a lobe...

Here's a neat calculator I've played with before, the same team also has a number of others that can really get you distracted 8) http://www.wallaceracing.com/dynamic-cr.php For the harder to find input info, I'm pretty sure the stock rod length is 6.123", someone please correct me if I'm...

This has gotten more posts than I'd imagine :shock: The car does run rich at WOT, although that's what I want it to do. But cruising around, the stoich. tells me it's happy with the car. But I did go with one heat range colder because the ground strap looked pretty pale when I pulled it out...

I think I'm getting somewhere with the information I've seen, I'll try to do an updated pressure test, with the motor hot, and a little different cam grind. As long as the flex plate doesn't try to wobble around hitting every dang thing again, I'm sure it will be fine :)

Moper: Took liquid measurements before the engine was put together, and if I remember right it was pumping out about 145psi or a little under at about 5k miles. I'm not certain of this number though, and the car isn't in the position to be cranked on And I guess I might as well call a few of...

Alright, i got a couple replies here. forphorty: (cool name) Just curious, whats your reasons for not liking TCI? I don't know a whole lot about most companies histories. And if I were to choose a different company for an off-the-shelf converter, what should it be? Both me and my dad trust B&M...

That makes me feel better. The heads have already been worked over and have new valves and springs (not sure of the rate but it's for sure heavy enough, possibly replacing though). I am most likely going with the CompCam XE274 with 1.5 rockers

I have already picked which camshaft(s) I would like for the engine after doing a little research. I am interested if the information of cam specs, weight, etc. was enough to tell me if the torque converter I'm looking at could be suitable. And if not, I could supply the additional information...

I am looking to swap the stock torque converter for a new one in my 360. It all started when a few of the flex plate legs snapped apart, so now the transmission is coming out :cheers: Right now the camshaft is a CompCam 268H, the car weighs 3350-3400lbs, has a 3.23 gear, and I drive it almost...

I've sometimes though about switching to NGK, but the price draws me back some. But I think the topic went a different way then I wanted, I actually wanted to see if I should keep the same plug specs or if something looks wrong? Example, heat range, does it look good?

Just seeing what I can change to get better performance/durability from the spark plugs :) They are Autolite 65's with the copper core. And not to long ago my tech instructor told me to trash the Autolites and get Champion because they were designed for Dodge. The whole thing started when he was...

After learning a bit more about "hopping up" electric r/c cars, I've seen that two different Pinion and Spur gear combinations, with the exact same final drive ratio can actually have a major difference on the motor temperature and performance during runs. Well, how does this all come into...

Sorry to re-open this thread, but I saw it was already recentley re-opened, haha. The comment about not shifting to third for the last half second or so, heres my question to the experts here... The crank was machined .10 when I rebuilt the motor a while back. It's a 77 360 with the cast iron...

One word. wow

I wouldn't spend the time unless you got a different cam too. Here's an idea though... If your confident of your porting, you could always port the heads, swap them for a factory magnum set and a little cash, and use the extra cash to buy a cam for the new engine. Although I'm not sure you would...

Crraaazzzyyyy, I can't beleive how tight that fits. Nice job :wav:

youll save some money by having someone custom fit a full system. but i almost garuntee it wont be as pretty as ordered pipes. the people at shops bend their own pipes, and it usually never turns out as good as from a manufacturing plant.

and yes, its a factory distributor

yeah, i have made sure im getting full throttle, always a forgetful thing... ill go ahead and get some more initial timing, i just wasnt for sure how close i was to ping. kind of hard to tell when you have a decent header leak (fixing once i have an extra 30 bucks laying around)

Dartboy is right, A good amount of contribution was put into this thread :) Thanks for the info guys, I'll be sure and try out some tips

Yes, they are all secure, I don't believe I have any vacuum leaks. And here is a small chart of the mechanical advance curve. 600rpm(idle)- 14 degrees 1000rpm- 20 degrees 1500rpm- 25 degrees 2000rpm- 29 degrees 2500rpm- 37 degrees 3000rpm- 37 degrees Does this look alright? And I plan on...

I have Sumitomo Gt's on the rear, 255mm. I can't remember the RPM through traps, although I do have a tach. All I remember is barely being in third. And yes, I am shifting manually, about at 5700rpm. I still haven't found the sweet spot yet, I will have to wait until I am consistent. And static...

60ft- 2.33 330ft- 6.14 1/8th- 9.24@80mph 1000'- 11.93 1/4- 14.22@98mph Sorry I didn't post this earlier, I was at school and am very forgetful, didn't want to forget to put up a thread. And the Caltrac people on the phone said we would be better off without the pinion snubber with their setup...

So far the fastest I've got in the 1/4 is a 14.2. It's a daily driver, with a mild 360 and a 3.23, so nothing crazy. I have done some tuning to the carb now, but just in case, I'd like to know any little tips/ideas I could use to help me atleast drop into the 13's. All I can think of is...

I have a 360 out of a 77 Dodge van with some Speedpro Hypernuetic pistons. I don't know if the heads were milled, and I'm not for sure how much the chambers were messed with, but it measured out at 9.3:1 static compression. Hope that helps for comparison.

The heads are already installed on the car, and it is my daily driver. So I can't really take them back off and show everything. I would of taken more photos but I never expected I would ask somebody online about how it looked. Here is the only other picture I found that would maybe help. Ignore...

This is for any port shop owners, or professionals, that may be lurking around. I bought a set of Chrysler J heads that were pulled off a race car. They were fully ported by some "famous" port guy named Kennedy, Kenneth, or McKinley, (something with a K, Mike McKinley maybe)? If you might know...