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Great diagram! I'll take some time to look into this as well! Thank you

I can certainly look into doing this!

Currently... I pretty much have been driving the car about 1-2 times a month on a weekend. When I first start the car it sits in the middle roughly but if I push the gas it bounces all the way to the right until I let of the accelerator. After 15 minutes maybe it will finally settled and stay...

I was driving my ‘74 dart yesterday and realized the needle isn’t reading in the middle. What is this needle position on the gauge telling me? What are the other marks supposed to mean as well?

Wow is this a common problem? My dad drove my dart just after finally getting it on the road and called me saying the car instantly died while driving. Acted like someone just pulled the battery cable off or turned the key off. Pretty unsafe if you ask me.

The car runs!! I brought the dyno guy over and turns out the timing was off along with some other tiny factors thrown in. An msd ignition was used to run my engine at his shop, and I'm running an orange box which is a different timing. The engine now sounds like a monster.

I will get back to the car in a few days to check the suggestions out. But as far as vacuum lines go. I only have the one going from the valve cover (pcv) to the carb and one from the carb to the vacuum port on the distributor. Is there another one I'm missing that is important that I just...

73abodee: it has an electric choke, mechanical fuel pump, Holley 750cfm Model 3310. Filter is new at fuel pump and fuel inlet is from summit that has fuel pressure gauge with filter built in. Fuel pressure is between 5-8 psi I believe it read.

AJ I'll check on that. Dubob : cap with wires connected were removed during installation. Installed cap to distributor and connect wires to spark plugs after engine was dropped in.

It pumps a good shot of gas if I press the throttle down, so I know there is fuel getting through the carb fine. But it's acting like it isn't...

Update: I hooked up a gas can straight to the fuel pump and that worked very well the engine did run much better, BUT it is having hard time idling. I have to keep my foot on the pedal to give it slight more gas to keep it running, but if I press to hard it cuts out and dies. Any suggestions ?

I finally installed after 3 years my newly rebuilt 360 in my 74 dart sport. I had the engine tuned up and on the dyno a few months ago and was running very well. NOW I finally have everything hooked up in the car, while in between the dyno shop and installing it i definitely made sure not to...

Thanks for the info! I was curious would could be used with the Mopar performance valve covers. From your pictures looks like it works just fine.

I was curious what is a great spark plug for my 360. It is a mild built engine putting out 285 hp on the dyno. Also, does anyone have any good suggestions on wire management for the spark plugs, like stand offs,etc... that have worked well for you using headers ? Thanks in advance !! -Aaron

I appreciate your suggestions. When I get time to track down issues and eliminate some things I'll give more feedback as to what I am encountering. I'm not to knowledgeable on the electrical system of this car, so thought I could find someone on here that is haha. thanks

Hey everyone, I have a slant six '74 Dart Sport and for awhile now I have noticed that when I am at a red light my blinkers either wont blink when I turn them on or they blink extremely slow for instance 1 blink for every 2-3 seconds. But when I hit the accelerator the blinking picks up to...

The belt on the alternator is the same size (one that is recommended by the auto stores) I have noticed while driving around the needle doesn't jump as bad and sort of settles more in between the top right mark and the middle right one. But I need to drive it more to see if it stays that way...

I know this is way at the bottom of the thread, but hopefully others will see this other issue that I am having. My alternator decided to die on me as well as my ECU. Finding out that my alternator was dying the ammeter gauge was reading in the negative side before my car decided to die on me...

As some of you might of followed my last thread http://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/showthread.php?t=155522. My alternator decided to die on me as well as my ECU. Finding out that my alternator was dying the ammeter gauge was reading in the negative side before my car decided to die on me...

Just a quick question for those of you out there. After I replaced the ECU and put in a new coil the car starts up no problem now. BUT I noticed while increasing acceleration or RPMs the ammeter shifts to the right quite a bit on the + side of the gauge. Would this be due to the battery losing...

It's Running !! apparently it must of been either a bad ECU or grounding problem at the ECU. With the new orange box we bolted it on with an extra grounding wire attached under the mounting bolt and the engine fired the instant I turned the key.

UPDATE: so this is what we have found so far today. We started checking voltage at the ballast and every reading we got with the multimeter checked with specs as explained above. Since the ballast is good, we went to Neg coil terminal and it read around a little over 11 volts with key in RUN...

Thanks for the help everyone. My dad will be here pretty soon to help try and run these problems down with me, given that he has all of the supplies and tools needed to do the job and I don't haha.

that is what I will need to be checking on next i suppose. I have not other idea what could be going on. If it's not sparking from the coil then that eliminates everything from the coil to the plugs, so anything before the coil should be looked at.

So I attempted the coil check. there was no spark between the wire and the block. I got a new coil and voltage regulator. installed both and still nothing...

just a quick question. You mean to pull the primary coil wire off of the distributor cap and hold it near the block ?

thanks for your help by the way. The ballist resistor shouldn't be bad as far as I know. I have an extra one in the car and it still does the same thing with it.

I will have to try the coil wire. it is getting fuel. I can see gas squirting into the carb when I hit the throttle lever. Could it be a fuse, might of blown after the alternator went out? I noticed one was kind of discolored when I looked at it, but it didn't appear to be blown though.

the car cranks over like normal just without any notion of trying to start. All lights work etc... I did forget to push the interlock button do you think that could be an issue as to why it won't start. It would need to be reset correct ?

bump !