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Theses are the lightest springs made by Caltrac for this setup. And I would have to move the pin to bring the axle back. The rear glass is out but other than the seats the body is bare. I think this is about 1000 pounds light at this time. without the front and rear glass, no engine or...

thanks, this is what it looks like now with 9x30 slicks no weight of course.This is going to have a fuel cell and most likely a weighbox in the trunk to meet class weight

Brand new set of caltracs mono-leafs , no engine or transmission.And according to ma Mopar in the racing setup we want either backwards or straight down. The reason I ask, also is I can not get the bottom track bar in at all. even with the rad ends completely screwed in,

As you can see that the leaf spring shackles are facing forward and not towards the back in the photo below. Will longer rear leaf spring shackles cure this problem and should I just make my own lonter ones with mild steel and some grade 8 bolts?

i found them finally, there must have been some glue on the packaging. because tons of peanuts were stuck to the package.

the stud on the stock mounts are too big for the shock's grommet

Thanks I will try that tomorrow

it has the plate with the mounting hole, just no stud. I was thinking about these. The specs are here Threads at bracket end are 1/2"-20 x 1 1/8". Threads at shock end are 7/16"-20 x 7/8". Overall Length 3.625 Overall Diameter 1.25 Stud Length 1.250

I got a setup of Caltrac 4200 Drag 2 hole profile setup. I noticed the spring plate does not come with a shock mounting stud. What would you recommend? This is for a 67 Barracuda

thanks, i justed wanted to make sure.

in my upper control arms, Can I use this to press them in?

i saw that article too but it was for "B' bodies. I guess or email to them should happen.

I want to replace my 60 year old pitted strut rods. Are there ant problems with the aboue set. And I can't go to adjustables due the the nhra not allowing them in stock eliminator.

Thanks for the reply. This is going to a stock eliminator car. And I can't use aftermarket arms and K members. After speaking to a few people that have great setups, I was told do not use poly bushing on the pivot, but use use poly on the upper a arms.

thanks it seems like every place I looked at the poly bushings

is there a supplier that is making new pivot arms that can be used with rubber bushings?

that looks more like a heim joint

dr diff only carries the 73 and above upper control arms, this is a 67 upper

Thanks, i discovered that my drivers side upper are also must have been in some kind of accident, there is a hairline crack. so time to find a replacement

While pressing out the 50 year bushing from the upper control arms. O both arms this sleeve popped off. Is it really required or can I just press in the new bushings

i was out of the country doing business and could not attend. And where is here?

in southern california, a duster or valiant that is bout 1K back east goes for 3K here

As we know that should put the stuff in a stock in stock location is not the same in reality. If I could find a 318 k-member locally I would go that route, but so far I can't find one reasonably priced. Some guy wanted $700 for his.

I plan on using one of these kits or something close to put a 318 on a S6 member. My question is, has anyone here use a set of normal headers or stepped headers using one of these kits

cuda

column shift manual steering

that would be great, thanks, but at least let me cover shipping

since what i am doing is not a real restoration, I will find one from a different year. Do all "A bodies work and what other mopar cars will work?

So many stock eliminator guys and SS are running caltracs with un-braced housings and having no problems what so ever.

not to hijack this conversation, but are there no suppliers for parts to rebuild a 67 column?