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OP, the question you initially asked was not clear as to your intentions. It lead everyone to believe, a; you didn't know much about brake systems and b; you had no intention of driving an unsafe car. If you are offended by some of our posts, those are the reasons you got the snide comments.

Use your head, don't put your life in danger, or others. Do the smart thing and either put it on a tow truck, or put it on a trailer.

The way my luck is no matter how much I plan and inventory parts and pieces, there is always "something" I missed that is crucial. Good luck on your endeavor!

You will probably need the sedatives, and you may lose your religion before it's said and done. LMAO

It is just an interference fit, after 50 years it was bound to move a bit. When I had my street cars, I was always tapping the pin back in.

Find a pair of shields, if the bc is 5x4, you will have to modify them. Back when there wasn't the selection there is today, I too got tired of the dust. I put a set of shields on and there was very little if any of the dust to deal with.

I'm running Wilwood manual disc on all 4 corners of my bracket car without a proportioning valve, I can slow it down quickly without locking the wheels up.

72bluNblu, I disagreed with you because I have Wilwood 4 piston disk brakes on all four corners of my Demon. The weight savings are totally worth the expense, I had KH disk and drum combination before swapping. Most days I can make the second cut out at the track with no problem.

BCA front inner bearing and race NBA6. Any of your local parts stores should be able to tell you the numbers and probably have them in stock.

Did you replace the master cylinder and if so, did you retain the original push rod?

New bearing new races & new seals, cheap insurance against trailer breakdown. I replace mine every 3 years no matter how good the look & have never had a problem.

I have Wilwood disc brakes on all 4 corners of my bracket car. My car seems to be able to slow in a very controlled manner in order to make the second or third turn out at the end of the track.

If it's original, it's probably a single pot MC & has no valves in the system that I know of, other than a splitter to send fluid to the rear brakes.

We installed an SSBC conversion on a 65 Satellite & used a small diameter booster. Unfortunately the car has moved to another state after the owner passed away & I don't have any pictures.

I have Wilwood manual disc brakes on all 4 corners of my race car & I can tell you they really work well. One of the 1/8th mile tracks I go to has a "VERY" short shut down area with 3 turn outs. I can get my car down to a safe speed to make the 2nd turn out, running 6.60's. My next build is...

Just remember, a LITTLE anti seize goes a LONG way. LMAO.

I really don't remember, it's been on the car since 2009 with no problems. I was even able to make the next to the last turn off at a track by me that has a very SHORT shutdown area.

Why not run manual disc brakes? I'm running Wilwood discs on all 4 corners of my 10 second bracket car with excellent results.

Do you have a FSM? If not, go to Mymopar & download one for free.

Go to MyMopar & get you a FSM, they're free. It will answer most, if not all of your questions.

Mount an adjustable valve under the car where only you know it's there, someplace inconspicuous.

Odie, can you get a length on the spring? I may have one, if I do I'll send it to you for postage. Bill S.

Good call on the self adjusters, I may have some of the pieces. I'll send them to you for the cost of postage. PM me & let me know, I'll send pictures also.

If the backing plates you show are all together still, when you look at the numbers on the wheel cylinders, odd on driver side even on passenger side with bleeder screws at the top. Be sure to get the gaskets that go between the axle housing & the backing plates from DMT.

On the wheel cylinders, the odd number goes on the drivers side & the even number goes on the passenger side. Both should have the bleeder screws at the top.

Manual disc brakes will work just fine, I have them on my race car & they work very well on short shutdown tracks. I would opt for about a 1" bore master cylinder start from there.

No, I've seen those type rotors before but I never questioned why the holes were there.

They were just cast at a different foundry would be my guess. Besides, it saves weight on the front end. LOL

You are probably going to have to use a 6 point socket, heat & a little muscle to get the WC bolts out. Don't go gorilla on it & twist them off, just a word of warning.

Are you sure it's a drum brake car? Pictures would be helpful to use. I thought most, if not all the 74 & up cars were front disc brakes, I could be wrong.