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I've got a copy of the instructions for the P5153590 kit for the 360 crate motors but can't get to it right now and can't find a link to post. It would be about the best overview of what needs to remain if you wanted to cut down a harness. I know it will need an ASD relay and fuel pump relay as...

I went from a 318 TBI to a 5.9 SMPI and for me the bottom end torque difference was night and day better. Even pulls a steeper hill in OD without kicking down now. Completely different rig.

Did you do the gasket without the adapter plates? Or in addition to them?

Steel with a Magnum gasket on one side and an LA gasket on the other. They aren’t gaskets themselves.

Based on those pictures, I would say they do not have enough meat to seal a 340 exhaust manifold. I tried to find a picture of an early Magnum head that had enough meat and came up blank. I know my buddy had a set when I was doing my swap, but guessing they are an early set only because...

The problem is the bottom of the port. That line at the top of the gasket port is the bottom of the cylinder head. There isn't any material there to squish the gasket and create a seal. Some Magnum heads drop down further, mine and the OP's did not.

SendCutSend can cut stuff for you. I have a pattern I gave someone here recently for this exact reason. Can't promise it is a perfect fix, I have the same problem (Magnum R/T heads with 340 manifolds) and my adapter plates seem to be ok. But I have leaks I haven't identified so it could be...

Personal opinion, hard to beat an 8HP70 or similar for a drag and drive event. As mentioned, built in transbrake, plus wicked fast shifts and more steps from first to 1:1 (6th) to keep the motor in the power band. Plus, after all is said and done, throw it in drive and cruise at 1500 rpm or...

Great info. What other modules were you hoping to run? Looks like the Holley dual sync distributor is another option, too. This guy has a pretty good video on setting up a Terminator X system on a Magnum.

Lot's of comments on the MS3 stuff if you search. Here are a couple of threads, might search on their screen names and see what else they have said. MS3 Pro Sequential Injection + Coil near plug conversion thread Anyone else using MegaSquirt on a LA motor? LA sequential fuel and spark EFI...

Other thing different is EGR. The ‘95 will have it but the ‘02 won’t as it went away when OBD2 was introduced. So you will need to use your intake and exhaust manifolds from the ‘02. I put a ‘98 5.9 in my ‘91 Dakota using a ‘92 harness and PCM. No issues or missing holes. Treat it like you...

Something else to keep in mind is the injectors. No idea if a ‘92 Dakota with a return style fuel system used a different sized injector than a ‘94 Dakota with a “returnless” system. I would look them up on RockAuto to check. Not saying it is why the motor won’t start, just something to keep...

The only real difference is the “returnless” style expects a constant fuel pressure while the return style with a FPR on the rail had a variable pressure depending on the amount of vacuum. And the PCM‘s were tuned to match. So if you run a PCM that used a “returnless” style, just leave the...

I swapped a 5.9 Magnum in the place of my ‘91 318 TBI motor in my Dakota and used the same pump and tank. I checked the part numbers and they interchanged. The pump doesn’t have the FPR on it so pressure is controlled at the rail or TBI, and adjusted accordingly. There are issues though...

That's exactly what I was referring to in regards to belt routing. I think that is the source of your noise. Not enough belt wrap on the water pump pulley.

Just didn’t want to assume. I have seen one setup once with no AC and no PS. They came off the alt wrapped the water pump on the back side of the belt and down to the crank pulley then back up to the tensioner. Looked like it had about a 1/4 or less of the water pump pulley making contact...

Definitely looks DIY to me. And it doesn't look like the end of the bottom bolt, at the head of the bolt, is supported. If so, I wonder if the mount is flexing and causing some misalignment or loss of belt tension resulting in the squeal. At the very least, I would dump that and find either a...

Very nice!! Looks like a great solution.

I am running a TBI pump in my ‘91 Dakota after swapping the 5.9 into it. It’s the same pump as used in the ‘92-95 SMPI motored Dakotas so when I swapped the 5.9 in I just left it. Pressure is controlled by the FPR. Not saying your earlier TBI pump will work, only that it might. Just a thought.

Are you sure the truck was a return style fuel system? It has a fuel pressure regulator on the rail and 2 connections? I am pretty sure that after about ‘93, all the Dodge trucks went to a single line returnless fuel system. The Jeep GC carried the return style setup the longest, but I thought...

Cool! Any pictures of what you did for the crank trigger? Always curious to see how people do things. Did you use the stock sensor, or one from a different setup? What did you do for the tone ring? I was going full Magnum EFI on top of my numbers matching LA360 with an A833OD. I built a...

I see 3 pedals. What's the drivetrain setup?

Can you post pictures?

Guessing you used the fuel pump eccentric adapter from Hughes to run your mechanical fuel pump? Seems like it was discussed earlier but I couldn't find it in the thread. If so, have you checked to make sure it is still tight? I know of one individual that has had it come loose on him. BTW, I...

Somewhere in this thread the guy shows the truck IC. What have I got myself in to? Denver here we come!!

Only suggestion I have in that regard is to go back to the shop and ask them what they think. Is it possible that the TC didn't get balanced, or maybe it was assumed to be in balance and never checked. I'm stretching here and it's the only other think I can see that isn't factory.

Might be worth checking the TDC mark to make sure the ring hasn't slipped. Only other thing I can see that might be off is the TC. You said you had a shop build you one, is it possible that it never got balanced to neutral? I know you said that was what you asked for, but could it maybe have...

Which balancer are you currently running?

What about trying it without any of the accessory belts on it? Seems like a long shot and maybe you already tried it, just tossing it out there as an idea.

I think the goal is to make sure none of those wires touch each other at all. I would bet the coil wire can jump to a wire it is touching and not even go through the cap, and the 8/4 wires and 5/7 wires are sequential which (I guess) make them more susceptible to misfiring. I’ve always heard...