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Yup, I've been involved with the automotive hobby for 40 years and have worked at three different performance/racing parts manufacturers. Nothing beats OEM parts for quality and fit. I had considered using a factory front disc setup. The only reason I did not was because I don't like the wider...

I'll post what happens. I have to see it through, these brakes were not cheap, altogether they were $1200 not including all the lines, fittings and other small parts I had to buy to get the system in. I have to say I'm disappointed with the tech support I've gotten from Wilwood. I've talked to a...

That's good helpful info. I will try to locate the tool to measure the actual clamping pressure exerted by the calipers. About the 7/8 bore not having enough volume to fill all those pistons at the calipers; Wilwood recommended going to the 7/8 bore to get more pressure to the calipers with less...

Also I forgot to mention when I swapped from the Wilwood 7/8" bore cylinder to the K car 7/8" bore cylinder it performed exactly the same.

That may be true on most OEM brake systems but I'd say at this point that its not an issue with the hydraulic portion of the brake system. Remember, I started out using two different Wilwood master cylinders. The first one was a 1" bore and it was so bad the car was not drivable. The next one...

Yeah I forgot about those cars. That's those mid sized boxy looking luxury cars with the super fragile rear axle. Well anyway I know the fwd K car mc in my car is not a problem. I've seen plenty of other rwd cars with mc out of Daytonas and other fwd Mopars too. Could be that some fwd mc will...

At this point I'd say for certain using the fwd mc is not a problem, at least the one I have. Mine is a K car mc.

I have an update. I took the car out of storage a few weeks ago and got back on the problem. Bought a brake pressure gauge that screws into the bleeders and checked the pressure. Turns out there was still air in the lines despite repeated bleeding. I was getting 500 psi at the calipers and if I...

Gentlemen, I'm sorry for the angry comment. My mistake was mentioning a problem I was not seeking advice on. The original post was to find a MC that met my requirements. The performance issue was there with the Wilwood MC the new one replaced. The reason I went to a different MC was not to try...

Its become apparent to me that I am wasting my time here. I can see that some people don't know their *** from their elbow.

I don't think the front wheel drive MC has anything to do with the braking problems I'm having. There is absolutely none of the original brake system left on the car. The front reservoir goes to a line lock then to a tee fitting then to the front wheels and the rear reservoir goes to an...

I suspect Wilwood sold me race pads. The tech/sales guy I ordered the parts from didn't seem too bright. I told him its a streetlstrip car. I'll get to the bottom of the problem.

OK, the car is up and running again. I drove it up and back from Lebanon Valley Dragway and made four passes at the track. 220 mile round trip. This master cylinder (the K car one I just installed) performs exactly like the Wilwood one it replaced. Overall the brakes are a big disappointment...

I've never seen a MC piston bind in the bore. Unless I'm not aware of something, the only way I can see rust forming in the bore would be if water somehow got into the MC. I do have a small plastic bushing that came with the MC so I assume that's the locking bushing. I'm pretty sure I can get a...

I'm not sure what that would look like. The hole is aprox 5/16" and has a concave seat at the bottom of the hole. I simply used 3/8" rod and turned down the end where it goes into the piston and carefully ground the end of the rod round to fit into the seat of the bore. I ran the brake pedal...

I installed it. It fits perfect I like the no bling look much better than the Wilwood cylinder I had. I custom fabbed an adjustable pushrod. The bore on the piston where the rod goes in is about one inch deep so the rod is retained by the brake pedal coming up against the brake light switch at...

Yes I mis-read that. Sorry. A friend of mine had an incident after he finished building his race car. He had neglected to have any method to positively capture the brake rod and on the very first pass when he launched the G force pushed the pedal up far enough for the rod to fall out and he did...

I took a look at the link and saw it. Like you said, no reason given. This cylinder meets my requirements for what I need so I will proceed with the install and ignore a warning without explanation. I've been at the car hobby since the 70s and have learned that a lot of so called experts are not...

I got it. Its cast iron with a level plastic tank and has the good old standard ports for 3/16" lines with 3/8"x24 flair nuts. Its Raybestos MC39327 and its on closeout so I assume they're not being made anymore.

The rubber boot is not there to "capture" the brake pushrod. The brake rod should be captured by the brake pedal being against the stop when the brake pedal is all the way up. I.E. the rod goes into the hole on the piston and when the brake pedal is all the way up (not depressed at all) the rod...

Will do when I get it. Should be here Monday 8-24 or Tuesday.

I don't have it yet, waiting for delivery from Rock auto. It's a two bolt flange mount. The Wilwood I have now is also two bolt and I have relocated it four inches away from the engine to gain clearance for the valve cover so removing it to lash the valves is easy. You can see how I did the...

OK, I found what I needed. After some research I found out that K cars came with a nice small MC with a 7/8" bore. Perfect for what I want. I bought a brand new, NOT remanufactured one off Rockauto for $42 including shipping. Done deal.

I have a 70 duster with a 440. Running Wilwood discs front and rear with a Wilwood 7/8" bore MC. I'm now installing Proparts headers and the Wilwwod MC is much too large to clear them. I'm thinking about going to an original non power/four wheel drum style MC but don't know the bore size. Does...

Thanks everyone. I'm going with DOT 3. It's a street strip car and I don't do any driving that will heat up the brakes all that much. The Wilwood 570 is $10 for a 12 ounce bottle. I can picture Wilwood buying DOT 3 in bulk and marking up the little bottles to rake in the cash.

I have a complete Wilwwod brake system on my Duster. It's a Wilwood tandem master cylinder with wildwood discs with Wilwood four piston calipers on all four corners. I had a lot of issues with faulty brake line flairing when doing the install, and wet through quite a bit of Wilwood 570 brake...