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So removing the center link is not usually necessary? My 72 Duster with 360 and headers has about a half-inch gap between the top of the center link and the oil pan, so I can't tilt the engine very far. But it doesn't look like the engine has to tilt much to get the inch or two of backward trans...

I'm running a Super SIx in a 72 Duster with a 2 1/4" system with a straight-through performance muffler. The better breathing makes it surprisingly quiet.

I'm not sure; it's plenty hot down there, but it gets a lot of air wash from the fan. Looking at the stock choke, though, I really wonder how much of the "opening force" comes from engine heat, and how much comes from the 12v heating coil built into the choke. On old VWs with electric chokes...

True...but this is my 8th Mopar, and I'm on my 4th air-cooled VW, and three little British cars to boot. Nope, I'm dumb. Smarter now, though.

Damn. A bachelor's degree in Applied Physics, a Masters in International Affairs...and I can still be really stupid. Plus I won't have to lay down on 20-degree concrete. At least I was smart enough to put in a mini-starter.

Usually I can just go until the wrench slips or the head snaps off. Either way, when I see blood, it's tight enough.

OK; thanks everybody. With only about 25 ft-lbs of torque, I'll go with hand-torquing and blue loctite while I locate one of those extension buggers.

1972 Duster with a 1967 225 and a 1974 904 automatic. After 300 miles of local running on the newly rebuilt engine and trans, I took the car on a 400-mile inaugural long-distance run. 300 miles in, two of the flex plate bolts loosened up, sounding like a fork in a garbage disposal. Easy...

I had this exact same problem with a 1972 Duster. Car ran like a dog; rapidly became obvious that I was in 3rd gear most of the time. When I looked at the kickdown linkage, the stock Super Six rod could not be adjusted far enough back for the kickdown lever to be all the way open at full...

I don't know a lot of things...but I sure as Hell know that I'm going to tear into that old 198 sitting out in the rain by my garage and grab the rods out of it. I nearly hauled it off for junk. Any other goldmine parts in there I should know about?

Think I can get in in a flat-rate box . I'll check and let you know.

I have a Holley you can have for the postage. It's off a 1972, worked fine when I pulled the engine. I had rebuilt it a couple of months before that. Been sitting outside for a few months, though.

I'm not certain, but if it's a metal line running back under your car, it may be your fuel tank vent. But that line is supposed to go to your charcoal canister (at least it does on a 1972).

Yeah, but i put it on anyway. All it does is slow down the ramp-up to +12v so the choke opens slower. Here in Connecticut, that's a good thing.

"you guys do know the choke works just fine without the electric module right? " Yeah, but i put it on anyway. All it does is slow down the ramp-up to +12v so the choke opens slower. Here in Connecticut, that's a good thing.

I agree with everything on the 2-bbl vs 4. In the long run, if you score a good price on the 4-bbl manifold and carb, you will probably come in cheaper than a Super Six conversion. It is a royal PITA to track down all the bits, and you'll pay for them when you find them, unless you score big at...

On eBay right now, there are three listings (they aren't mine!) for some of the more troublesome parts to find: a rebuilt carb WITH the electric choke module, a throttle linkage WITH the kickdown link, and an air cleaner. You may want to think about snapping them up when you see them, so you...

Air cleaner, kick-down linkage if it's going on an automatic, electric choke actuator and choke heater controller from the Super Six donor (or manual choke conversion), and a shorter throttle cable. You'll also need a way to block the EGR hole in the manifold if your engine doesn't use it.

I'd buy that eBay one and call it good. I got mine off eBay for $65 about 9 months ago. How much time and gas will you spend driving around looking for one? They fit and they work.

This may be a dumb question, but why are you going to Wisconsin for a slant? I would think you can find one in TX pretty easy, and then you can see what you're getting. Around here, 2-3 slants per week pop up on Craigslist, and most of them go for $200-$300, often with a transmission.

I've got a manifold you can have for $50 plus shipping. There's a guy on eBay that sells the carbs, cleaned with an older rebuild, for $80. I've bought three from him. The hardest part is the kickdown linkage for an automatic transmission. They are somewhat difficult to find, and often cost more...

I've got a good running one you can have for the postage. Rebuilt it about 6 months ago, then went to a Super Six. Nothing exotic, but you can't beat the price...

You can also make conical washers. Get a thick machine bushing from Ace hardware or Tractor Supply with the right ID hole. Put a bolt through it and tighten a nut down on top of it, and chuck it into a Drill press. With a file, dress the OD to the right diameter, and put the slope on the cone.

"he is talking the air injection hole on the rear most of the head." Hmmm. maybe. But it sounds like he did a Super Six conversion, and that wouldn't require a head swap. I thought he was talking about plugging the EGR hole that happens when you put the post-EGR super six manifold onto a...

I think you're talking about the EGR blocking plate. The choke sits up in a well on the top of the manifold, and usually doesn't leak since it is on the outside of the manifold. If it's the EGR hole (on the side of the exhaust manifold, below the carb), you need an EGR blocking plate. The one...

Look REALLY had for a vacuum leak.

Makes sense that you can swap the input shaft, but I'd question the economics. I just rebuilt a 904 and it was over $100 for the kit and another $30 for a front band, $25 for the book, and a bunch more for the cleaning supplies, snap ring pliers, etc. If you can get away with just swapping the...

The nice thing about dealing with Hughes was they knew what I wanted. I didn't have to explain it in super-detail; the guy (Pete) said, "We have those", and gave me four different stock numbers for four different stall speeds. When I dropped the order, I got it in three days. Nice folks.

Old engine with a newer post 1968 tranny is a bit of a problem...you will need an old transmission to match, or you can get a modified torque converter that will mate the two of them together. I just got the TC from Hughes Performance; it was $220 plus shipping. It has the small snout on the...

PM sent on offer