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650 avs2. IMHO

I have a almost new carb for sale. It has adjustable air bleeds too. https://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/threads/qft-slayer-600-cfm-vac-sec.544102/

How does it affect performance? Vacuum is actually a measurement of the engine’s inefficiency. Higher vacuum indicates that the engine is working harder to breathe. This limits performance. However, it is necessary. Restricting the airflow and creating vacuum helps slow the engine down and limit...

Street car never over 4500 rpm, I’d go with the 500.

Its ok but a tad more won’t hurt.

Thats a coolant recovery system. The should be coolant in it along with a 10231 radiator cap. The recovery system picks up excessive coolant when the car get hot and returns it when it cools off. It keeps the rad full all the time and keeps the nasty off the street.

Either of you guys need 10% Summit code? Use by 8/7. Lmk.

I’ve Googled it and come up with everything but.

Need to change jets. How do the bowls separate from the fuel rail?

600 is all you need. IMHO.

:steering:So it ran good for ten years and then you decided to fix it?!

Color change on the strap should be at the curve. The pics show too much timing which could also explain detonation.

600 cfm Edelbrock. Run one on my 360. Works great.

You might have the throttle plates open to far which is disabling the idle circuit. Idle screws all the way in should kill the engine.

Not the answer but there are some explanations about big cams and carburetors. Carburetor Tuning: Cure Big Cam Sag - Hot Rod

Thats the way to do it. Get you car running good then switch it over to Fitech timing. Big learning curve but thats a fantastic system. Make sure you get the software on your computer so you can download and see every function. Baby steps!

Could be as simple as a spark plug change.

Hope someone chimes in for you but I would call FiTech for an answer. They do have pretty good support. IMHO

Wire it open. Couple pumps on the loud pedal and fire it up.

Read the end of this. He had a nightmare figuring it out. FiTech EFI system

It looks like there is plenty of barb for any kind of a hose clamp.

Well done finding the problem. I wonder how many others are fighting the same problem. Why the hell would you have a hose at 100 psi on a barb without a clamp on it is beyond me.

Gosh darn it! You did your part. Send that stuff back to them and let them get full pressure out of it.

Run a jumper wire right to the pump. Set the FiTech to 100 and see if thats changes things.

First thing I would do based on running the Petronix is bypass the ballast. All you need to do is unplug the single wire and tie it to the double wire. Done. Your never going to fix your problem running 10v to the Petronix. Start there.

Heres what I would do. Use engine timing, get the car to run and address the fuel pump issue. Once the car starts and runs then switch to FiTech timing. I edited this in; I ran a relay for my inline fuel pump and never had a problem with it.

Maybe its the fuel pump percentage Im think of. Looks like all bases are covered. Im going with a vacuum leak.

The handheld should read the fuel pressure.

Are the IAC steps within the Fitech specs. I would confirm this. I ran a corvette bypass filter on mine. It was at the back of the car so a short return line is all you need. No issues.