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Black engine bay?! Don’t say that too loud in here. Black engine bay is blasphemy to Mopar folks.

Here is why you don't tint driver and passenger side windows Its a safety thing. Why? One of the 5 keys of the Smith Driving System. Make sure they see you. If your at a side street and vehicle is approaching, they can’t tell If your smiling face is looking at them. This is especially...

Probably has rust holes in the pinch well. Hope that not the case but....

Those bubbles look like rust spots ready to pop. I would leave them alone.

I used weatherstrip from Home Depot to seal that door.

My wife said “what the **** are you watching”?

Run the cowl hood over and scrap it.

I would not cheap out on a paint job and go with the base clear. It could turn into and expensive oops lesson

One thing to remember before you cut the hole is that the engine is not centered under that hood. Obviously the scoop needs to be in the center

Oil up the hinges.

Headliner for sure

If your watch Graveyard Cars, the man says use BC/CC for metallic and use single stage for solids to get the best results.

http://www.moparmusclemagazine.com/projectbuild/mopp_0305_1967_plymouth_valiant_windshield_install/

Whenever using rivets on cars always use all steel rivets. Not aluminum ones.

Ill throw in my two cents and recommend Eastwood seam sealer. I use a cheapo brush with the bristles cut short to apply it http://www.jegs.com/i/Eastwood/352/51657ZP/10002/-1?CAWELAID=1710842641&catargetid=1784159531&cadevice=c&&cagpspn=pla&gclid=CNGw9qaEvLkCFWcOOgodmlwAsw

Can't buy the 67 style. No one makes it. http://www.moparmusclemagazine.com/projectbuild/mopp_0305_1967_plymouth_valiant_windshield_install/viewall.html

You need a backer on the backside or close that gap up completely if your going to try and butt weld. You can't expose welding to air. That's what shielding gas or flux wire do. Protect the weld from exposure to air. Try and overlap the metal and you'll see a big difference

I have a left floor pan if you need it. Price is right too. Free!! If you want to pay for the ride you can have it.

I used mineral spirits. Mineral spirits are pretty cheap. Get a good spray bottle, couple of scrapers, stiff brush, bunch of rags and cardboard or plastic for on the ground and have at it.

When you put the metal in, Eastwood seam sealer gets the job done. http://www.eastwood.com/ew-brush-on-seam-sealer-quart.html

Here is a article about using a 69 Dart gasket in a 67 Valiant because of the non availabiity of the lock strip gasket. Should work in the 67 Dart also http://www.moparmusclemagazine.com/projectbuild/mopp_0305_how_to_install_a_windshield/index.html

I bought the 135 welderfrom Eastwood. It works great. Unless your going to spend a lifetime welding, its a great buy for the buck. The duty cycle is where the cheap welders suffer. When your welding car you don't do long welds anyways so you don't warp the metal. Spend the money for a...

Heres a fyi update. I bought the pan half for the 67 Barracuda like you guys said. It almost a dead match. Everyting in the front half is the same. Only difference is the locaton of the seat belt holes and the rear footwell is shallower then the original. Thanks for the help

Thanks for the input guys. Looking at pics of the Dart and Valiant pans it looks like the front section are the same and the difference is in the rear, just like you all said. Guess I'll order up the Barracuda one.

Need to replace my front floor pan and there is a thin spot on the rear pan. I could live with the rear but I'd rather do it once and right. AMD lists a left half, front and rear for a Dart but not a Valiant. Any reason why they wouldn't interchange? Thanks Frank

I need to order front floor pans for my 67 Valiant. Are the better or worse manufacturers. Any recommendations on what kind or where to buy them. thanks

First try in the garage...came out much better then I ever thougt