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That exactly why old system had the coolant passages and water turn rusty. Air in the system.

I agree thats true but your still allowing air to be in the system.

When its all said it done whether you do nothing or turn the car upside down, a closed cooling system is next step. It keeps the rad full (keeps air out) and the nasty off the street. IMHO

Also works on a slanty. Product Page

http://www.hastingsfilter.com/Literature/TSB/94-1R1.pdf

As far as the “start and let it warm up”, unless you can take it out and drive it, it’s best left alone for the winter. IMHO.

You need to put a coolant recovery system on it as should anyone who has a car without one.

Nice catch Slowswinger. Hope the OP picked up on that. NGK plugs get colder as the numbers increase.

I would start the cheapest way. Go down at least 2 steps colder on your spark plugs. If they don’t foul (probably) won’t, go two more. You have to stop the pinging!

Yeah I cant get it to open either. Matter of fact Autolite.com wont open period . Hmmm. Sounds like you on the right track though. GL

Here is the answer. https://www.autolite.com/docs/default-source/tech-specs/understanding-spark-plugs/autolite_heat-range-facts.pdf

If you running stock spark plugs you should go colder two steps to start, maybe more.

Thats a transistorize voltage regulator not a transistorized ignition system

Arrogance already closed someones mind and thats nothing to laugh at.

The old Mopar system was a great option at the time. Fast forward 50 years and there are better options. Only after I swapped out my Mopar system to HEI did I find that out.

HEI Electronic Ignition Retrofit How-To - Slant Six Forum

Slantsixdan is one of the most knowledgeable on here. Click on his link and run the HEI he recommends. You wont be sorry. Send that other crap back to eBay.

Ballast wire to the coil shoul be battery voltage at start and 9-10 in run. Bypass the ballast by jumping it until you get the thing running. You should have battery voltage at all times. Start or run. Once she running, remove the jumper

For starters the orange box setup is electronic not HEI. Check the reluctor gap. You need a brass feeler gauge.

That crack can easily be repaired by any welding shop.

If all of a sudden its running rich you have a carb problem. My bet is the choke isn’t fully opening. I’d start there. IMHO

Maybe a feel good thing but 91 octane has a slower burn rate then 87 octane so could be the car likes it. If it don’t ping you don’t higher octane. Only way is to run both and see which grade returns the best fuel mileage. IMHO

Sounds great. Keep us posted on your track time

If it ain’t broke.....

Thats why i used the www.classichei.com setup by Trailbeast. Plug and play for a few extra bucks. No muss no fuss. Little plug for ya Trailbeast and I dont even know the man

Pretty sure you need to use a HEI coil

Not mine http://buffalo.craigslist.org/pts/4404640925.html

Anyone know what that shifter handle is from?