Search results for query: *

Not all the time. I’ve done a dozen of these without problems. However, mine was ok when I put the wires I have on, but without changing anything, I’ve begun to have issues. The Magnecore tech info suggests some wires have a carbon coating that can burn off. I’m thinking this is a possibility.

Nothing plugged in. No amps in standby mode

Like many on the board, I am using a FiTech efi retrofit. I was an early adapter and dealt with improperly packaged fuses, burnt deutch connector and failed tach driver, on 2 systems, my own and a customer. Once ironed out, the system runs well but recently has had emi/rfi issues. Since I am...

Spread the terminals for a tight fit and pack with dielectric. I've seen this a few times.

Add a 10ga charge wire from the alt to the starter relay. This will greatly reduce the current going to the ammeter. All the failed bulkhead connectors I've seen are because of too high current along with oxidized connections.

You can put a 200 amp alternator in, but it will only put out what is needed. In your case maybe 40 amps. No need to bypass the gauge. Add a 10ga wire from the alternator to battery stud on the starter relay. This will allow some current at the ammeter to alert you should it stop charging, and...

Just saved me 15%, awesome!!

Anyone have a better code than 10%?

Has anyone used this alternator on a small block with Edelbrock heads? Is it deeper than the 60 amp unit? The chunky heads take away from the backside clearance.

Why not add an 8 ga wire from the battery to the alt. Ammeter will still work but with less sensitivity. This also reduces the current through the bulkhead

Did you probe the start wire at the starter relay?

Yes you can if you mean the starter relay stud. It will do exactly that. Your ammeter will still work this way buy will be less sensitive due to less current. Your alternator only puts out what's needed anyway.

Look for a bad connection starting at the white plug under the dash for the ignition switch. Put a test light on the positive side of the coil where you can see it lit. Turn the key on and start checking the bulkhead as well. Sounds like a bad connection cost you 12v to the coil while running.

Nippondenso 210-0106.

From the factory, the blue wire that plugs into the voltage regulator has 12V switched +. From there the blue and green went directly to the alternator as field wires.

Make sure you have the correct crimper.

I'm not into this plastic lense lighting either. I prefer glass lense Hella h4 that are dot legal. It's about the lense not the bulb. I just installed some Oracle lamps and they were junk.

Why not run a 10ga wire from the alternator to the starter relay? That will reduce the amperage through the bulkhead without any mods. I do this on every car I build.

I haven't put any retro type radio in yet that didn't sound like crap. Besides aftermarket, I've had several mopar radios converted which sounded good.

1- there is a special tool to remove the lock ring. However, if you are careful with a soft punch you can release it without damage. Depending on the floor work you may want to drop the tank for safety.

Mine went 11 years.

Just add a 10 gauge wire from the alt to the starter solenoid. That will bypass some of the current to the ammeter. This way you can still have the ammeter, although less sensitive and have a more reliable system.

If you had an alum water pump (70 and Up), the alt would be more forward creating better clearance.

Just swapped out my Optima red after a record breaking 11 YEARS!. I've heard bad things about Optima since like many others. I bought a Carquest gell cell. Nicest battery out there is the Turbo Start gell cell restoration battery. Looks OE, but has the good stuff inside for $250.

Looks like a botched Mallory ignition attempt judging by the colors.

Sounds like a combination of a bad turn signal switch and dual filament bulbs in backwards.

Understood, just more than one way to skin the cat. Nippo alt is internally regulated...Its funny how everyone talks about the balast resister burning out, in 25years I've never seen one go bad..

And I have to ask WHY? A simple Nippondenso alternator transplant and one additional 10ga wire from the alt to the starter relay is all that is needed to have a reliable alternator and take the heat off the bulkhead connector...

If you want to do this and not cut anything, painless has been making these harnesses for years. The also come with weathpacked connectors..

should run along the bottom of the cluster.