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Did you notice the on the sign where it said the extension pipes were included? I guess it's only $105 if you want to order another set :dontknow:

Don't shoot the messenger....I got your back Pauly :D Great for the guys looking for ground clearance. TTI's were never meant for the guys looking to get the max hp out of their engines, they were made for fit and ground clearance with better breathing than stock manifolds. Now they made one...

The easiest install would be the TTI's, but definately not the cheapest.

It might be a date coded spring and pin :geek:

Unless your building a serious racecar, I don't think using the 1 5/8" headers will hurt your performance that much. Might even help out on the bottom end. Just about any type of header will do alot better than stock manifolds.

It's unusual that the passenger side had to be banged up. The drivers side is the problem side, especially with the hookers....headers that this :geek:

If you got the money then definately TTI, like Kev said. They look great and supposed to be a near perfect fit. As for the tips, Straight out like the "Normal" 340 Duster should. Even if yours came with the turndowns because it was a CA car, the regular 340 Duster tips look alot better.

Too bad you didn't live closer, the 73 Duster I'm gonna be taking apart has a set of Hookers on it and it has alot of clearance around the p/s. I'm probably gonna just toss them.

Dougs makes some nice headers and they definately aren't cheap. When I was looking for headers for my 65 Valiant they were one of two places with a listing. They wanted $960 plus shipping :shock:

Unless you're building a serious racecar, I would worry more about price and fit. I would also advise against moving your springs to the top of the axle tubes. There are better ways to raise the back of your car. Anyway most of your clearance problems will come from the front of the car.

The stock early 340 manifolds flow good, but not as good as headers. I would be careful of taking advice from a chevy guy, just being a chevy guy shows you what kind of judgement he has :lol: Maybe he's just trying to get as much of an advantage as he can to try to keep up with you :wink: :D

I had a great time working on the car and just hanging out :D Anytime you need help, just let me know. I'm gonna see if I can make it back next month, as long as you don't mind me hanging around :wink:

Sounds like the EvilDuster will be arriving soon :twisted:

The kit is pretty straight forward. If you plan on using a horn, the kit has a horn relay in the fuse box, so completly bypass the stock horn relay. I know this sounds like common sense, but if you go by their spreadsheet you kind of think you need to run the wire that goes to the horn into...

Considering the kit was for wiring a complete car, it wasn't that bad. Just had to vent a little since it was so chevy oriented :roll: I plan on getting one for my Duster because I think I might be able to save a couple of pounds and clean up the looks quite a bit 8)

Painless also left out the wire that goes from the horn relay to the horn. And the connector for the hi/lo beam switch is for a chevy not a Mopar switch. Just thought I'd let you guys know in case anyone else is planning on using a painless harness :scratch: They also don't include the wire...

Hey I was on the phone with Painful, I mean Painless Wiring :lol: It's not my fault they doubled up on the power circuit and left things like the license plate light and reverse light out then failed to mention it in their manual :? They also don't include any ground wire :roll: The only...

Just about got the fuel system plumbed. The only hold up was having the wrong tube sleeves. The parts guy gave us -6 tube nuts and -8 tube sleeves :evil:

We sorta gotta keep each other out of trouble :roll: :drunken:

I'm still in El Paso, not going to leave here until the 24th. Or until Chads car is running, which ever comes first :wink: From here I go back to Las Vegas then finally back to Hawaii on the 27th.......Maybe :roll: :D

Steve, you shouldn't have a problem. The clutch linkage and lakewood bellhousing is where all the problems came from. Your set up should be easy. If you follow the directions that came with the headers, you shouldn't run into any problems. If you do, I might have a reason to fly up and help...

The "Hard" side went right in and the "Easy" side was a pain in the butt :?: :roll:

I guess thats something else I'll be working on this weekend :lol:

Hope it will be all done by the time I leave, I want to at least ride in it :wink:

I just got a shipment from John today (it got here ahead of schedule :D ) and he had included a TTI flyer for their X-pipes. Looks good and they have one for the a-body in 2.5" and 3". If you're going to get the TTI headers from John, might as well just get the X-pipe and the rest of the...

The TTIs supposed to be designed not to interfere with the suspension. Usually the centerlink goes thru the headers on most designs, but the TTIs don't. Torsion bars shouldn't be any problems.

I need to find me one of them girls :wink:

Just order them from John, he'll make sure you get the right part. At a really good price too :D

It would be nice if they made one for the 65 with P/S. I would settle for one with 1 1/2" for the 273

Spitfires won't work, I got a 65 Valiant. They only work with power steering for 67 and up :(