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I just delivered it to him yesterday. I didn’t start it or tune it. Lots to do before it’s ready to run. It’ll be on E85 for Sick Summer so we’ll see. Goal for summer is 8.50’s, eventually it’ll come back to me for a 25.3 upgrade on the 8.50 cage I installed (hence the floor bars) and he’ll...

I’ll never understand why these ECU’s can’t compensate for fuel pressure given the fact that fuel pressure is an input to the ecu and the rest is just math to calculate injector pulse width.... sigh... lol

Aren’t they all hard parts failures? The cause, however, we can only speculate on. 20psi isn’t a lot of boost, except in the case of a 40 year old stock block so who knows. It could have let enough oil in the chambers where even the best tune wouldn’t have mattered. He could have easily found...

It’s interesting that his idea of a good tune is no broken pistons. Ignore the fact that you can still beat out half the rod bearings before ever popping a ring land....

10 psi is fun on the street, but you’ll be yawning at that after the third pass on the track and wanting it turned up. It’s an addiction for sure.

That’s a huge gain. I’m running 3.73s since it’s a heavy car. It would probably be quicker if I went back to the 4.10s.

Definitely add ring gap. There’s no such thing as free horsepower, there’s always a cost whether it’s time, money or reliability. They can add significant power but Intercoolers are expensive and add significant cost and complexity in packaging. For 8psi, I’d run a blow through carb and a cheap...

This is me vs a Tesla Plaid. It was running 6.15 1/8th mile times... I’m not an EV fan but I’d never call them slow

That’s some super glue and a blue shop towel and back in action, lol.

Sounds like 650rpm lol. Glad you got it figured out. Can’t wait to see the dyno results!

Glad to see you got it all sorted out. It should rip on the dyno now!

Here’s the Holley smart coil recommendation. I set up a dwell table and I’m at 3.5ms for driving and gets to 5.0 only when racing.

Holley does not

That’s a really nice tool built in. Every EFI platform should have that.

I order NGK plugs from Rock Auto in bulk. The colder ones will be more likely to fuel foul if the tune is fat. I run a 6 heat range on the street and 8 at the track. I just got some 5s to try this year with 87 octane.

They’re all hot and pulsed ground. Make sure they all have power and check continuity on the ground side. Get an LED injector noid, that makes it easy. Get fresh plugs too. Plugs are like any other consumable on a turbo car. You’re gonna need boxes of them for tuning and racing.

Looks like 1,5,6,8 from the pictures. They could definitely seal up with some load, but those plugs look like they’re not even firing.

That’s your plan? That thing is only running on 4 cylinders and they’re pig fat. I’d be doing a lot more diagnostics before I pulled an engine. Did you check injector wiring? Verify all 8 injectors are firing? Verify firing order and spark at all 8 coils? Cover the bases before starting over...

It’s sure sounding like that which is why I asked how it shifted. I went through lots of issues getting mine up and running as well. I’ve learned an amazing amount since then. Keep at it and it’ll all be worth it!

I figured as much. I don’t recall how yours is configured if you’re on the gate springs on the dyno or trying to make boost with dome pressure. The thermostat is out of mine right now and it wouldn’t hold 170 in between pulls, just sayin. These EFI systems are so customizable it’s easy to paint...

Good thread on digital rising vs digital falling. Digital Rising vs Digital Falling? what’s the purpose of the 170 degree threshold for the boost control?

NGK 7 copper would probably be fine, go to an 8 if you ever get past 4K rpm. Make sure the gap is tight. Like .018 tight. Turn the dwell table on and populate it. 3.5 w/1ms seems like an issue but I’m not sure how MS applies those figures. I started with speed density fueling but changed to VE...

You’re attachments aren’t working. Given the “brakes on” comment, I would be looking for issues with driveline, like transmission or converter. How does it shift? The feel of that would make one look closer or rule that out. It still doesn’t explain the cut out at exactly 4000 rpm. That looks...

I run Holley so I’m not familiar with issues that can crop up with MS nor can I diagnose that thing over the Internet from 1000s of miles away but they need to be logging and if the dyno shop can’t log, diagnose and tune, why are they in business? They need to check for any type of...

Every weekend? What was the purpose? Especially if it wasn’t tuned. I don’t start mine unless I’m driving it, loading it on a trailer or such. My buddy did the same. Several stuck injectors and washed all the rings out. It still made 1500whp on the dyno. I doubt that’s your issue.

I think I gave my comments elsewhere in this thread. I originally purchased one of those narrow wheels and the sensors easily “lose it” and the signal drops. I ran into this on my DS sensor. My AR Engineering wheel has a tooth width equal to the sensor face.

Ah, I reread the part about going across the power and signal. I’ve never used a pull up resistor. It may help with my driveshaft sensor. What air gap is your setup running?

It’s worth a shot. From what I’ve learned, that sensor has a small strip of the face (as opposed to the entire face) that is actually the sensor. Given your thin reluctor wheel and the little strip of sensor it’s easy to see how it could lose signal. I have a 36-1 wheel just like yours and I...

Good point. The Holley stuff is all 5v. No resistor needed.