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Hoosierdaddy: If you've had no problems, I'd say you have found a great solution. I managed to get my to fit but, considering all I went through, and how many heater cores I ended up with, I'll bet your solution is more cost effective as well. I salute you!

Pictures from other members' posts show it clamped on the rubber sheath so, wish me luck. I really am going to try and combine all the relative posts/threads into a Word document. I hope you all realize how hard it is to find this info. Outside of the forum, it may not exist.

Oh no. Another problem. Mine were all clamped on the cable. It's supposed to go on that metal sheath? If so, I'm done. I've been working on this box almost 2 months and it's holding up everything else. If it does not have those metal sheaths, does that mean I need new cables? It may have to go...

That is a really big help. Great pics. No screws means I have to confess to trying for an hour to snap it on and failed. I remember popping them off with a screw driver but no luck snapping them back on. I kept thinking, there is either a trick to this I'm missing or...I suck. Guess ai know the...

Not my box as I'm trying to understand which cable goes where.

I pulled these pics from another thread on cables but don't see a small screw. My bad eyes?

Thanks. I spent half a day trying to put back the restored box and was stymied by these clamps. They had no screws. On the bright side, I see washers with pointed stars hold the cable end on the actuator rod. The ones I pulled off are ruined so I would have needed these anyway. Back to Ace...

That is one clip, front and back view. There are 3 cables, 3 mounting brackets, and 3 clips. There were no screws. Hope this helps. When this is done, I'm going to try and copy all the posts on heater boxes, cables, heater cores, fiber glass repair, into Word and make a mini-book. You all have...

Thanks for the reply. The pics did not post thanks for the help. There are no halves, only a flexible clamp that I popped off, 4 years ago, with a screw driver. There were no screws either. If I can get the pics to post...

The picture is from the Plymouth 1968 Shop Manual, which is identical to the picture in my 66' manual. My heater box has 2, not one hole and 2 separate flex tubes going to defrost vents not one splitting into 2 as in the book. The clip bracket on my box is to the right, not left as in the...

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With all the pics on this site, I just might figure out which cable goes to which actuator rod. My 68' shop manual shows the defrost cable bracket to the left of the dual vent tubes, mine is on the right facing the box in the same direction. For now, my question is, how to pop the cable clamps...

If I didn't have stumble bum hands, ha ha. Thanks for the compliment. I'm a first timer at all of this. I miss the days when Darts, Dusters, Barracudas were commonly seen on the streets, not barn finds

Cosgig. Whew, sigh of relief. You solved my problem. Thanks

Cuda416. After all I went through, I give you thumbs up and would never call it ugly. I have books, diagrams you name it but, if not for the folks on this forum, I'd have gotten nowhere. I can't thank you all enough.

Sounds like my story. I went through 4 for my 68 Barracuda. I still had the replacement one from the original owner. All the tubes for the ones on the market today I tried to use had tube locations that are slightly off. For all of them, the bottom tube comes out straight one inch before bending...

P.S. once I put the box back in, would I attach the hook at the top first and then attach the bottom end in the slot? Thanks. I took mine out 4 years ago, got side tracked by life, and rebuilt/restored it top the bottom in May but forgot where some parts go

The bottom flat part with a hole fits in the slot in the bottom, correct? Is it attached at the bottom with a machine screw and nut? I have the J-hook but screw/bolt/washer/nut are missing. Thanks.

Considering he's the only one with a You Tube video (that I could find) on this work, I am reluctant to say anything critical of "Tyler's Neighborhood." But he installed the actuator rod of wedge shaped door on the wrong side and put the engine side firewall blower motor gaskets/seals entirely...

The black plate at the tube outlets will not go flush. Part of the problem stems from the fact that the tube on the right is not properly executed in all 3 that I tried, compared to the one I took out, and my lack of skill repairing the broken out plenum. I will probably fill the gap with foam...

I had already ordered #3 from Classic Industries. Took some work but I seem to have it in. I will keep the one I took out, the root beer burper (I ran water through it, root beer came out, it went clear, emptied it, and back to root beer. That said, I still plan to have it pressure tested and...

Okay, I received the new (#3, now) heater core from Classic Industries. Claims of a perfect fit were overly optimistic and the "correct tube bends" not entirely accurate. But, I could not let Trailbeast down. Someone I managed to get it in. The black plate is not flush at the tube outlet. This...

Classic Industries, the bottom tube on my factory replacement, the root beer burper, comes out 2" before turning, the 2 after market no goes come out 1"

Originalowner 73 340Duster: My apologies if I've taken your thread, it's just that I'm in the same boat. I am attaching a photo of Classic Industries' 67-69 Barracuda heater core. This is not the Spectra one they carried before. If you go to their website, you can enlarge the pics to see if they...

your work is definitely a cut above. I was bragging about it to my Mopar brother who lives back east. I thought my air box looked pretty good, nope. How did you get yours to come out so good? I wish I could attend some kind of tutorial taught by people like you. It'd be worth the money.

Trailbeast: now that is a really good heater box. You do excellent work. I wish there was a way for people like you to hold a tutorial for people like me who have no experience and for certain, lack your skills. I went to UPS yesterday to return one heater core to Rock Auto (too late on the...